Road Trip Part 10: Final Morning in New Plymouth (Taranaki, North Island, New Zealand)

March 08, 2014

After another great breakfast at the hotel (salmon eggs benedict), it was time head north. But first we wanted to stop by the Customs Office near the harbor and ask if it were possible for a cruising yacht to check into the country here. We’d looked online and hadn’t found a clear answer.

So we headed over to find the customs office, entering a surprisingly large, modern, corporate-style building. In fact I’ve never seen a customs office in a building like this before. We went to the receptionist to ask our questions, and before we knew it she was arranging meetings and offering to make us coffee drinks. We felt a little intimidated in that we didn’t want to make this “a thing;” we just wanted to ask a question! But we accepted the coffee offer and soon someone came out to interview us before leading us to a different office.

We talked to the people there, and they weren’t sure what the current status was, looking into the rules and finding them unclear. This wasn’t something they were doing at that point, but according to their rulebook, maybe they should be . One man said he’d look into it, and when we decided to return to New Zealand, we should call and ask the status. We assured him we would. In all this was almost embarrassingly formal for such a small thing–I’m surprised they didn’t call the prime minister. They were all very nice, but I was just as glad to get out of there before this turned into a board meeting with corporate higher ups.

After our customs visit, we went to get a good look at an iconic New Plymouth sight: Paritutu Rock. This rock monolith marks the SW corner of New Plymouth, with Port Taranaki/New Plymouth on its north side and the beginning rural/wilderness beaches stretching down from its south side. At 500-feet high, this impressive rock is actually a piece of an ancient volcano’s rim, while small islands just offshore are other remnants of this rim. Of course one can climb Paritutu Rock, but we already had enough on our plate for the day and decided to head on.

Below, photos of Paritutu Rock, the view looking out form the lobby of the customs building, our excellent hotel breakfast restaurant, and a few more New Plymouth murals (click on any photo to enlarge).

Our final stop before leaving town lay near the north end of the Coastal Walkway, an 8-mile walk along the waterfront of New Plymouth. This area of the walkway follows a river through an estuary thick with grasses and bushy plants. It’s lovely, but the key thing to see is the Te Rewa Rewa Bridge. Depending on your perspective, the bridge design can represent whale bones, or a breaking wave, or evoke a sense of wind. It’s also meant to honor the spirits of those who have passed and are buried nearby. If you walk across the bridge, you can turn and see Mount Taranaki perfectly framed under the arch of the bridge. Unfortunately it had gotten too cloudy to see the mountain but we did enjoy looking at this masterful piece of art.

In all, the grasslands, river, and bridge evoke a sort of thoughtful, almost wistful feeling, respectful of things which lay beyond the veil, whether it be spirits, God, unresolved sadness, or dreams yet to be born. It’s sort of a strange intersection of past, present, future and something else. It’s hard to put into words, but it’s not a bad feeling and in fact I could imagine enjoying walking here if we lived nearby.

After the bridge, it was time to head north and return to Tauranga via Waitomo, the Disneyworld of glowworm caves. Below, to add some color to this post, I’ll put in some flower photos from Pukekura Park that Rich took with our newly-acquired smartphone. Frankly, it was disconcerting to me at times that the quality of his phone photos sometimes surpassed my camera.

Gray World

November 13, 2021


Tired of all the colorful pictures on our site? Here’s a change.

We’ve had the most amazing run of beautiful weather during this (so far) ten day cruise. That’s changing with rain and forecast wind for the next couple of days. So far, we’re getting the rain but not much in the way of wind.

It was strangely beautiful to walk out into the cockpit this morning and be covered by this somehow-comforting gray blanket. Surprisingly, it’s not cold out. It’s not really warm, but definitely not cold. The temperature is kind of like the sky and sea: a whole-world sensory deprivation tank. -Rich

Level Who-Cares Tour, Part II

November 11, 2021

After trying another bay that was too full of boats to anchor (it seems everyone is escaping Auckland’s covid lockdown by heading out the Hauraki Gulf!), we ended up in a really idyllic bay on Waiheke Island called Te Wharau. Here’s the view of Legacy last night…

Photo by Elana on Windfofla. Thanks Elana!

And a few shots just after we arrived below:

Te Wharau Bay on Waiheke Island
Te Wharau Bay on Waiheke Island
Te Wharau Bay on Waiheke Island

We spent the night before at Waikalabubu Bay on Motutapu Island. Below are some pictures from that beautiful spot.

Waikalabubu Bay on Motutapu Island.
Waikalabubu Bay, Motutapu Island
Waikalabubu Bay, Motutapu
Windfola, Legacy and an Angry Bird

And here’s an interactive map of the places mentioned, including our berth in Auckland to show how close this amazing cruising ground is…

Level “Who Cares!”

November 6, 2021

New Zealand has various levels of Covid-19 restrictions from the most severe Level 4 to the most free Level 1. Soon, they will change to a traffic light system with restrictive red to almost-normal green.

To further complicate things, there are also step-downs. In Level 3, step-down 3 we got permission to have picnics with two other people and at step-down 2, coming in a few days, retail stores get to open.

We’ve added another level: Level “Who Cares!” We did this by casting off our lines and heading out the Hauraki Gulf. It feels normal out here. (Well, as normal as it can be in a bay where you get woken up by donkeys!)

A Ponui donkey grazing near the beach this morning.

The donkeys here are very unique and rare. They are called Ponui Donkeys after this island. We’ve been here before posted lots of donkey pictures.

We came out here a couple of days ago and it feels so good, I’m thinking that maybe we’ll just live in the Hauraki Gulf until this silly pandemic thing is over.  -Rich

Here are a couple of other shots taken while having coffee in the cockpit this morning…

A little bit of the sheep ranch operation ashore.
We anchored next to a dear friend’s boat in this bay.
I could do without the power boat anchored so close to us (especially when the bay was mostly empty!) but we’re at Level Who-Cares, right?

Update: The next day

It seems like everyone in Auckland is ready for Level Who Cares. This is the bay this morning…

Chamberlain’s with 28 boats!

And here’s where we are…

Update: November 8, 2021

The next stop on the Who Cares tour: Hook’s Bay on Waiheke Island. Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful…

Hook’s Bay, Waiheke
Hook’s Bay, Waiheke

 

Road Trip Part 9: Egmont National Park (Taranaki, North Island, New Zealand)

March 07, 2014

Our next stop was Egmont National Park, located in the higher elevations of Mount Taranaki, up around the cone of the mountain. Here, the mild coastal climate combines with very high rainfall and cultivates a lush, old-growth rainforest thick with twisted, gnarled trees, lichens, and abundant mossy growth. It has been dubbed a “goblin forest.”

Just driving up towards the park was impressive, the trees becoming increasingly tall and lush the higher we went, and then the cloud cover began increasing. Soon, we’d arrived at the Visitor’s Center.

Not surprisingly, there were many walking tracks from which to choose, taking anywhere from minutes to days to complete. Not having a lot of time left in our day, we opted to take the short track to one of the park’s best sights: Dawson Falls, a 60-foot waterfall that plunges down the side of a cliff into a rocky pool below.

While the hike wasn’t very long, the forest was stunning and different from other forests we’d visited—cooler, wetter, and less subtropical feeling. The term “goblin forest” was actually very descriptive for this as I could imagine goblins, fairies, banshees, and Lord-of-the-Rings types feeling right at home in this dark, mossy place. Below, a few photos from the trail (click on any photo to enlarge).

We walked down to the Dawson Falls lookout, which had a beautiful view of the waterfall, before continuing down steep steps to the pool at the base. Once again, a New Zealand forest trail had blown us away with both incredible beauty and new things to see and experience. Below, a few photos of Dawson Falls.

We walked back to the car and drove down around the back of the mountain to return to New Plymouth. We had one more possible trail walk to do, but at this point we were just too tired, and it had gotten too late to visit the day’s hoped-for winery. While we didn’t get to quite everything on the list, we were more than satisfied with what we’d done.

After stopping at a grocery store for a bottle of wine, we were both craving meat so went to a restaurant that featured both steak and ribs, the Meat and Liquor Steakhouse (the name gets right to the point of the reason to go there!). The place was charming, the food terrific, and since we were early, we had it to ourselves.

How nice to cap this day off with a long bath, wine, and a movie in our room. After checking out of the hotel the next morning, we planned to visit a couple more spots before heading north. –Cyndi