April 8, 2013
We checked the weather and found that in just a few days we were going to have a period of very light winds. Usually this is good news, but in this case we had to face the facts: our time was running out. We had reserved a slip in Tauranga, telling them we’d arrive around mid-April or so. I had hoped it would be more in the “or so” category, but here we had a perfect weather window to go around the Coromandel Peninsula and head down the other side to Tauranga. We couldn’t pass it up; so we’d have to leave cruising much of the Hauraki Gulf for the following year.
In the meantime, we needed to choose one island to see. The choice was easy: Waiheke Island. I don’t know what the word Waiheke means in Maori, but “food and wine” would be the most fitting for this place.
Waiheke is a large island only 3 miles from New Zealand’s mainland shore, but it’s warmer, drier, and has excellent conditions for growing wine grapes. As a result there are nearly 30 vineyards and some of the most popular wineries in New Zealand. They also produce top-notch olive oils, honey, and some popular artisan food specialities such as Ringawera bread and Waiheke herb spread. Waiheke also serves as a suburb to Auckland, with quite a few people commuting by ferry, and it’s very popular place for day trips and weekend getaways.
West side of Waiheke Island
We motored up the west side of Waiheke in the morning’s calm seas. After the series of little islands we’d visited, the tall hills of Waiheke were impressive, as were some mansion-sized houses overlooking the ocean. We motored over the north side to Oneroa Bay which sits by the island’s main town.
Oneroa Bay
Anchoring was easy in this large bay with a sandy bottom. Carrying the dinghy across the wide sand beach was a little harder. Hardest of all was figuring out where town was. Behind the beach was a narrow unsealed road, and beyond that tree-shaded homes hugged the hillside. After wandering around a bit, we swallowed our pride and asked someone where the town was. They pointed out a steep walkway assured us that we’d find it up at the top of the hill.
Oneroa
After a short but steep climb we at last found Oneroa! It’s more of a village than a town, just two or three blocks of cafes, shops, restaurants and coffeehouses packed in along a main road.
We started our town tour with Waiheke Fruit and Veg. It’s a just small corner market, but inside is a wonderland of food goodies.
Waiheke Fruit and Veg Market
This market is a perfect representation of this island: an unassuming casual county facade hiding impressively sophisticated foodiness inside. I’ve been to some nice markets, but I’ve never seen one that sells tubs of duck fat.
Once we checked out the market and walked through the village, we were rather stumped as to what to do next. This is a large island and best seen by car, but we wanted to do wine tasting and not worry about driving. After considering something called the wine bus, we decided it would be easier to get on a tour. We called a number from my guidebook and found we could get on a tour the following day if we didn’t mind following that group’s itinerary. We didn’t mind at all and were relived to have found something. In the process of tasting we’d also get to see some of the island.
In the meantime, we decided to combine some wine tasting with lunch and headed to the sleek and elegant Cable Bay Vineyards because it was within walking distance.
Cable Bay Winery
The settling looked like a magazine layout, with fashionably-dressed customers seated about the beautifully furnished patio overlooking a bay. We were given menus and told to have a seat wherever we liked. Unfortunately that’s they last we saw of anyone working there. We decided rather than sit and watch other people eat, we’d head back to town.
We ended up at a pretty little restaurant in town called Vino Vino. The menu was limited and a bit pricey, but the view was amazing! Our steak sandwich was surprisingly delicious, especially with chilled glasses of fabulous local white wine. We’d been somewhat put off by the Cable Bay Winery experience, but now we were feeling much more optimistic.
Vino Vino
After lunch we did some exploring and ended up at a small bakery and ice cream place called Little Wai, situated downstairs from its larger parent restaurant (Big Wai, I guess?). We were amused at the varieties of meat pies. The simple meat pie is a New Zealand staple, but these versions were pretty fancy. It was yet another reminder that this is quite a foodie town. We wanted ice cream and both ordered the Kohu Road salted caramel and dark chocolate flavors. Holy crap! That ice cream was some of the best we’ve ever had, especially the salted caramel. It’s made in Auckland, organic and hand packed, and it’s not widely available. We were lucky to have stumbled across it.
Little Wai
After we finished our ice cream, we had just enough energy to carry our dinghy back across the wide beach. We motored back to the boat very happy with the way the day turned out and looking forward to the next day’s wine tour. –Cyndi
(Note: You can click to enlarge and scroll through any photos above.)
