Sunset and Sunrise at Shaw Island (Lindeman Island National Park, Queensland, Australia)

Posted on May  6, 2024 about
September 21 and 22, 2022

One thing we noticed while cruising through the Cumberland Islands was the stunning beauty of the sunsets. I did some research as to what makes sunsets in certain places extra special and found the key factor is good air quality. Essentially, all sunsets are amazing, but particles in the air can dull their vibrancy.

After pondering this, I realized there’s another contributing factor for the lovely sunsets here: the relatively flat landscape along the mainland coast. Aside from a few scattered low mountains further inland, the landscape is pretty flat, a vast desert that stretches from one end of the continent to the other. Combined with the longer evenings that accompany the approach of summer and Australia’s clean air, these conditions make a great recipe for painted-sky sunsets. Especially from the vantage point of an island just offshore!

The next morning, Rich was up at sunrise and decided to fly the drone. This flight beautifully captured the misty morning light so unique to these islands. I managed to whittle the resulting photos down to two, but can’t choose between them. So, here they both are:

Today we’d be saying good-bye to this part of the Cumberland Islands and heading for the actual Whitsundays (as opposed to all these islands to the south which are often mistakenly grouped under the broader label of ‘the Whitsundays’). –Cyndi

Different Day, Same Routine

May 5, 2024

We’re heading south along the east coast of Sulawesi from almost the very top of the island to the very bottom. It’s about 450 miles as the crow flies (almost) and we are trying to do it without overnight passages. We’re making 30 to 40 mile hops every day and spending every night in a different bay.

Every day, it’s the same thing: get the anchor up around 8 AM, head out onto a mostly flat, windless sea, watch the squalls develop around mid-day, get hit by a squall or two in the afternoon, make our way into a bay to anchor at about 3 or 4 PM. It’s been an amazingly consistent routine, and not an unpleasant one, despite the squalls.

Hi, my name is Squally McStormface and I’ll be your squall today!

The squalls haven’t been too bad with the worst of them blowing to about 20 knots (though often on the nose). We often just miss all or most of the rain. Other than the squall wind, there hasn’t been enough wind to warrant sails, with the exception of motor-sailing with the headsail up today for about 2 hours.

Most of the places we’ve anchored in so far have been bays we spent time in on our last trip down this coast. Some have been new like this bay last night.

The last time by, we didn’t think we could get into the bay through that shallow entrance. I guess we had more confidence this time and it was no problem, with 16 feet the shallowest we saw on the way in.

There isn’t much info we’ve found about anchorages along this coast. Every time we’ve found a suitable anchorage, we’ve shared it on Zulu Waterways – a crowd-sourced anchorage guide.

Needless to say, there are no cruising boats around. Other than small, local fishing boats, there aren’t really any other boats at all. It feels like we have Indonesia’s coast to ourselves.

Tomorrow, we think we’ll have to break the routine and spend an extra day where we are now. This will give us better weather for a big 70-mile jump on Tuesday. It sounds so nice to me right now to have a day off. What will we do?!

-Rich

The Ethereal Beach at Shaw Island (Lindeman Island National Park, Cumberland Islands, Queensland, Australia)

Posted on April 20, 2024
about September 21, 2022

Once we pulled our dinghy ashore, we got our first good look at the area. The beach was huge, not so much in its length as its width. Wanting to read a sign near the trees behind the beach, we trekked across, turning our stroll into an unintentional hike! Meanwhile another yachtie couple had arrived and set up an awning to sit under. I couldn’t believe how far away they seemed, looking like mere ants from our vantage point.

Walking back towards shore, I noticed the beach had a particularly ethereal quality. The air had that almost misty look so unique to these islands, softening the afternoon sunlight which bathed everything in a gentle glow. The whitish-gold hue of the sand and the light blue water near shore gave the scene an added warmth.

This beach was quite flat, and the low tide left shallow pools of water scattered near the shore. These pools mirrored the clouds and blue sky above, creating a striking effect. Nearby Lindeman Island, and the Whitsunday Islands further north, filled the horizon with their dramatic hilly landscapes.

Below, some photos from this lovely beach.

We walked along the beach to a copse of mangrove-type trees near the headland. At high tide, these trees sit in water, but for now, the sand from which they grew was dry. We walked among them and wow, the temperature suddenly seemed to soar. We retreated, deciding it was time to cool off by sitting in the water along the shore.

As we looked for a good spot to sit, we noticed numerous small pointed shells that initially seemed to contain hermit crabs. But Rich pointed out they had a proboscis and cautioned me not to touch them. When we realized they were also in the pools on shore, we were thankful we hadn’t stepped on any because these critters can sting–some species even fatally. These didn’t appear to be the fatal sort, but that didn’t mean a sting wouldn’t hurt. Below, a photo of the cone shell.

We chose a shell-free spot in the water and enjoyed sitting there. (For anyone wondering why we didn’t swim, these waters are home to several species of dangerous sharks, not worth the risk in our opinion.) As it was, Rich felt a small sting, likely from a cone shell, and with that, we decided it was time to head back to the boat. Below, a couple of photos from our dinghy ride.

After taking showers, we opened a bottle of wine. It had been a trying day, and I was glad we had plenty of our “feel-better” liquid friend on board. I took the time to make chicken breasts with lemon and dill, which paired wonderfully with the feel-better friend.

We could hear what sounded like howler monkeys outside, but I soon realized they were what I call whoop-whoop birds (whose proper name is pheasant coucals). Their haunting cry suits this area well–not quite the actual tropics but close enough to share many of its characteristics.

Later, I heard a sound I associate with New Zealand, the hooting of a small owl known as a morepork. It turns out there’s a similar owl here in Queensland with an identical cry. I momentarily felt wistful for New Zealand, a place we consider one of our homes. But the time had come to move on and step towards the future, whatever that may hold. Still, I’ll always pause to experience the nostalgia that washes over me when I hear a moorpork, recalling the feeling of wonder we felt while cruising the islands around New Zealand. –Cyndi

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