Boobie Greeting (Passage to the Marquesas)

Rich: Here we are in Hiva Oa, settling in. We’ll try to start posting more, with pictures, as we know have some internet access. To start with, here’s Cyndi’s account of our excitement on our arrival morning and a picture of the rainbow that welcomed us into Atuona Bay where we are now anchored.

May 25, 2012

Cyndi: I was on watch until 5am boat time (we had only changed our clock by an hour so far and weren’t on Marquesas time yet).  It was dark and we were about 6 miles from the south end of the island where we’d make our turn and sail along the south side of Hiva Oa to our anchorage. The conditions had magically calmed overnight, the wind dying down to about 10 knots and the swell easing up, slowing the boat so we could make our approach in the daylight. I was excited about getting in and hadn’t slept well earlier, and now I was very tired as I woke Rich up for his watch.

Rich took over the watch, and I went to bed and fell into a fitful sleep.  I kept dreaming that Rich was having trouble starting the boat, and I’d wake up at any strange noise. Finally I was more deeply asleep when I heard Rich yell, “Hey!!!” about as loud as a person can yell that word.  I shot up out of bed to take action on whatever emergency we were having, asking what was going on.  Rich said, “There’s a boobie in our boat.”  “What?”  Then I heard this flopping around like a large, live fish on the floor.  I later found out that Rich heard something in the cockpit, then saw a boobie perched at the companionway looking to come in.  He yelled at it hoping to scare it off, but instead that seemed to encourage it to come on in!  Bobbies have legs and feet and can walk, but this one apparently forgot that as soon as he landed in our boat, flopping around like a dying fish.

I will stop here to say that boobies are large seabirds, about the size of a 12lb turkey, that for whatever reason love hitch rides on boats.  The problem with that is that they can damage delicate equipment if they land on it, foul up your fishing lines, or relieve themselves all over your boat (I’ve heard horror stories about what that’s like).  I had joked to Rich before we left about getting a plastic owl for the boat, just because I liked him and thought he’d make a low-maintenance pet.  They’re typically used, mostly unsuccessfully, to scare away seagulls.  But after an earlier encounter with a persistent boobie who very much wanted to land on our stern, I wondered if it might have been a good idea.  No boobie would ever be frightened of an owl, but maybe if I ran around waving it, hooting like a madwoman, it would confuse it enough so it would leave.  Anyway, you try to avoid having a boobie on your boat.  I had never considered one might come *in* the boat.

Now, Rich asked me to get him the beach towel.   Boobies have large beaks and are not a bird you want to tangle with as those beaks are known to break fingers.  Rich threw the towel over the boobie and got it into the cockpit, then managed to throw it from the cockpit into the water.  The boobie squawked at Rich indignantly, as though we had invaded his home.  I was furiously cleaning the floor below, glad it hadn’t left much of a mess. At this point, I would not be getting any more sleep.

Nine Miles Out (Passage to the Marquesas)

May 25, 2012

It’s 5AM and we see land nine miles away, well, see it on radar anyway. It’s still dark. We were hoping to make the waypoint at the east end of the island at 7AM (LDT – Legacy daylight time – one hour earlier than PDT – we changed our clocks once since we left). We’re going about 4 1/2 knots with a reefed mainsail and mostly rolled up headsail to try to keep it that slow. Lets see, 9 divided by 4.5 = 2, two hours until the waypoint. That sounds like we’re right on schedule.

We wanted to get in to our east-end waypoint at this time so that we could sail the 15 miles to the anchorage along the island in the early morning light. It should be beautiful with cliffs rising abruptly out of the water to 3500 feet. We’ll write more after we get in and let you know how it was.

It’s been a hard passage and we’re really glad to have all but the last few miles behind us. The past two or three days have been really rough. There were swells coming from several directions at once and Legacy got thrown around pretty good. It was all we could do to move around the boat the minimally necessary amount to maintain ourselves and seaworthiness. Don’t even get me started about how hard it been to go to the head (that’s restroom on boat-speak)! It’s much better right now. It finally calmed down a few hours ago.

We heard from our friend Dean who was just a little ways ahead of us the whole trip. He’s in the anchorage – he got in yesterday. He says there are lots of boats there – maybe 25 or more at anchor. There’s still room for us to anchor but we’re surprised that there are that many boats still there. Most of them should have been and gone by now. We thought we’d have the place to ourselves. Oh well. More later. -Rich

Not Alone (Passage to the Marquesas)

We weren’t alone out there. For the first 10 days or so of the passage, we saw on average, two ships a day. There were a couple of days we saw up to four at once when we got further south, closer to Panama. After that, it was almost always one a day. Often, we’d only see them on radar or AIS (a kind of air traffic control transponder for boats). This one was about 2 miles away. We had a 982 foot tanker pass about a mile in front of us. It looked like an island complete with waves crashing on it’s side. While that tanker was the closest, we were in no danger. We’d talked with the captain on the radio to ensure a safe clearance. -Rich  (May 2012)

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