Two At Sea

August 3, 2013 at Matei Point, Taveuni, Fiji

We use all kinds of sources for weather information while out here cruising: meteorological office forecasts, GRIB files, satellite pictures, ameture weather forcasters, retired professional forecasters, internet sites and more.  Now we have one more to add to the mix – maybe the most accurate yet… this weather station at Matei on Taveuni Island. -Rich

August 2, 2013

Fiji generally has warm but comfortable temperatures, but there are those occasional days where the trades die off and it gets pretty hot. This was one of those days, and we planned to spend mid-day in the water. We were in the perfect place to do so, a short dinghy ride from some small islets rumored to have good snorkeling. (Below a gallery of the islets at various times of the day.)

We started by motoring between two of the larger islets nearby. The water between them was shallow and beautiful shades of green, teal and aqua. This colorful waterway between two pretty islands felt like its own world and have been a beautiful place to swim, but we were looking to snorkel and headed on.

Our first stop was a small islet. The snorkeling area wasn’t very big, but it was impressive with fish and coral everywhere. Just off this island was a tiny rock island with a single small tree. We headed over to discover a large bommie that had more clownfish than we’ve ever seen. It was covered with both the fish and their anemones (where they like to hide) hidden amidst the rocks. Not only was there an abundance of clown fish, but at least two or three different kinds. Some of them were pretty tough, following me up to the surface after I invaded their territory, but they’re not the kind of fish to ever bite or attack. I’d swim down again and again to watch them get all huffy about it. We swam around and just enjoyed the scenery and all the fish action.

After the rock island, we were both getting cold and opted to head back to the boat. We had a small area of coral under our boat and decided to swim down and check it out. What a surprise to see a fair amount of fish down there, including more clownfish and a squid. It was a bit of work to get there as we had to freedive about 20 feet, but the fish were so interesting we did it quite a few times.

At this anchorage we also had interesting fish life near the surface as some Golden Spade Fish had decided to hang around our boat and enjoy the bread we occasionally tossed to them. These spade fish were even bigger the ones we had in Tonga, but just as friendly. –Cyndi

August 2, 2013

We headed over to the Coconut Grove’s own beach, which unfortunately involved using the yelling sticks as it was fairly low tide. We made it ashore, both of us still healthy and well, neither one with an oar protruding out of their skull. That’s always a sign of success.

We tied up the dinghy and walked along Coconut Grove’s lovely little beach and up the stairs to their covered deck dining area. We ordered eggs and toast with their home-grown chopped veggies, and their specialty: banana bread.

With this, we found our easy winner of the Best Breakfast in Fiji Award (at least of the places we’ve tried). The banana bread was easily the best we’ve ever had, more like a giant banana nut cookie in loaf form than normal cake-like banana bread. The eggs and toast were very good, but the standout was the side of chopped veggies in some seasoning mix that I couldn’t identify, but was amazing. We topped off our morning feast with cappuccinos.

Sitting out on their tropical deck overlooking the ocean, having amazing food, was about as nice as a breakfast as we’ve ever had. It was well worth using the yelling sticks to come here, and if we were staying I’d happily use them to come back here every morning! Sadly today would be our last day here. –Cyndi

August 1, 2013

On the way back from Restaurant Tramonto were three small resorts I wanted to check out. When we travel to areas like this, I love going to look at the special resorts and consider them one of the attractions of the area. After all, they’re a combined effort of talented architects, interior designers, landscape architects, floral arrangers, and gardeners.

If they do their job well, the final creation blends with the landscape while enhancing and maximizing the impact of the beauty of surrounding area. It also gives a feeling for the local culture, a sense of place. When they really get it right, there’s a serenity around the area, an undefinable sense of grace. It just feels good to be there. A well-designed resort is a work of art as much as any painting in a museum, but this a work of art you can walk through and be a part of.

The first resort we came across was the Taveuni Island Resort, a very nice place. The open-air dining room looks out over an expanse of grass and beautifully landscaped grounds to an infinity pool, which overlooks the beach below.

Next up was the very exclusive Taveuni Palms. There are only 3 villas, each with their own beach, swimming pool, and staff including a personal chef to create your multi-course meals. This is a place to come to be catered to, pampered, and indulged.

We knew when we were getting close because the landscaping along the road went from very pretty to wow! Just walking past the resort grounds along the street was a visual feast for the eyes. We hoped to see more of the incredible grounds and walked down their drive.

We ended up at the simple reception area and met one of the owners, a lovely Kiwi lady and her little daughter. She was very kind and gracious, saying she’d normally show us around but all the units were booked. We chatted with her for awhile, and there was no hint of snobbery or suspicion that certain other resorts adopt when they’re pretending to be classy. This woman was the real deal, able to make her resort feel easy-going, yet able to cater to the needs of those from the highest echelons. She’s like the Mr. Roarke of Taveuni Island. Below is a gallery of the street in front of the Taveuni Palms, and their wonderful white dog.

Finally, we headed back on the road to the Coconut Grove Beachfront Cottages, another beautiful little gem, set on a golden beach. Their open air dining room sits on a hill above the beach, giving a treetop view of the surrounding palms. We loved it and decided to come for breakfast the next day. –Cyndi

August 1, 2015

We decided to be dropped off at an Italian restaurant I’d read about, Tramonto, maybe a mile from the anchorage. We’d worked up an appetite, and Italian food sounded pretty good.

We’d come for the pizza, but the setting was breathtaking! The open-air room hung off the side of a jungle-covered hill. Below was a postcard-worthy view of the bay below, with its blue and green water, long white stretch of sand, and tree-lined beach.

The cheese and garlic pizza was very tasty, but with this view it could taste like cat food and we’d still come here. Speaking of cat food, we were thrilled to see this restaurant had its own cat who would visit every table. A fantastic view, good food, and a cat! Does it get any better than this? –Cyndi