Two At Sea

August 12, 2024

So, we haven’t been very good at posting current events in our lives, so here’s a little attempt to rectify that situation.

Here We Are

We’re in a town called Labuan Bajo. It’s the gateway city to Komodo Island and its famous dragons.

The Good

Snorkeling at Komodo Island was amazing. Click for a larger version of this picture. The Colors were stunning. There was as much fish life and diversity as we’ve seen anywhere and the hard coral was great.

And while not as pretty as the fish, these guys are cute in their own way.

You’ll be seeing a lot more pictures of these guys in the near future. They put on quite a show for us.

The Bad

No, these guys weren’t bad. They’re helping us out of a bad situation though. Our refrigeration quit working two days ago now. Fortunately, it happened when we didn’t have too much in the freezer. But the horror: Cyndi’s been driven to drinking warm beer!

They took away one part yesterday and found a leak. Tonight, after the hard work of reinstalling the evaporator in our refrigerator, they found another leak. To track down and fix this one, we have to pull all the tubing from our compressor to the refrigerator. This won’t be any fun, but I ran the tubing to install it once, I can do it again.

There are lots of things on Legacy that need attention after 16 months of cruising Indonesia where supplies for repairs are limited. We’ll do what we can when we can. In the mean time, we’re still loving this amazing country!

-Rich

Update: August 14, 2024

These are the happy faces of two who fixed a refrigerator and two who now have a fixed refrigerator.

Posted July 19, 2024
about September 25, 2022

Sawmill Bay turned out to be quite a beautiful place to wake up. The peaks and valleys of the hills, along with many of the area’s pine trees, were accentuated by the sun’s first light. In the cool morning air, it was very easy to forget that we were in the tropics and not on an alpine lake! Below, a couple of photo panoramas . . .

and a photo gallery . . .

It would be easy to linger here, but with some time to kill, we figured we should check out some anchorages nearby.

Cid Island, just outside the harbor, had a west-facing anchorage. We had also passed a pretty little island, Henning Island, as we motored up this way, and Rich had been intrigued by an area called the Gulnare Inlet. Below is a map showing these places.

We decided to go take a look at these options and see what called to us. –Cyndi

Posted July 16, 2024
about September 24, 2022

 
Cid Harbour is a deep inlet on the west side of Whitsunday Island. Its wide opening is partly covered by the large, forested Cid Island, with channels above and below allowing for easy access into the harbor. Cid Island provides a lot of protection for the harbor, making it an all-weather anchorage.

As we motored through the channel below Cid Island, a dramatic view of the harbor unfolded before us. “Oh my,” were the words that came to mind as I quickly forgot my disappointment about skipping Hamilton Island.

Here, Whitsunday Island’s mountainous interior was on full display, with dramatically shaped peaks backing layers of hills, lushly forested with pine and rainforest trees, all sitting above the rich blue and green hues of the water.

Below, Cid Island and the entry into Cid Harbour.

And some video we took while entering the harbor.

At first, this area reminded me so much of a similar place in New Zealand, Great Barrier Island. However, the air here was warm and tropical, punctuated by the screeching of cockatoos and the warbling of kookaburras, and there were sea turtles in the water! I, for one, was pretty enthralled!

Below, some photos of Cid Harbour from inside the harbor.

We had picked out an anchorage, but I noted two small areas, Joe’s Beach and Nari’s Beach, as we passed. They didn’t seem tempting; so we continued on to our anchorage, Sawmill Bay.

Sawmill Bay is fairly long, with anchorages at each end (although the whole area is actually one long anchorage). One end has a beach, noted by one guidebook as “the best beach in the harbor,” so naturally most of the boats had congregated there. We chose the other end of the anchorage, where a narrow finger of land forms a natural breakwater to tuck behind. With only two other boats there, we had plenty of room.

What a lovely place, hilly and green with water that lit up bright royal blue in the sun. However, it was ‘look but don’t touch’ for the water as this is where shark attacks have taken place (something I’m going to discuss in more detail soon). Below, some photos of Sawmill Bay.

At this point, we had the option to take a walk onshore or even hike up to the top of a nearby peak, but we succumbed to the temptation to open some wine and watch a movie before pondering our next steps.

So, I don’t have photos of any Cid Harbour hikes or dinghy rides, nor did I think to take any photos of whatever we were watching on TV (kidding). If I could go back in time and put up side-by-side photos of the movie versus a walk, I’d probably feel bad that we chose the former over the latter. But it had been yet another trying day, and we were mentally and physically tired. So, considering what best fit our moods, the wine and TV were a good choice.–Cyndi

Posted July 3, 2024
about September 24, 2022

On our final morning in Chance Bay, we woke up to low clouds sitting over the mountains. It was a beautiful sight!

At this point, we were in the process of making a decision. One option was to take our boat around the southeast corner of Whitsunday Island via a channel called the Solway Passage. Navigating this strait needs to be timed carefully, as the current can be very strong, up to 5 knots. If the wind blows opposite of the current, conditions can get really dramatic.

We could probably have managed going through the passage, but there was another issue. Once on the east side of Whitsunday Island, logic would dictate we stop at places of interest as we made our way counterclockwise around the island. This would entail another week of cruising before we’d be able to get to a marina.

Our other option was to head west to Hamilton Island for some marina time, then head out fully stocked and refreshed to the west side of Whitsunday Island and the south side of Hook Island. Below is a map showing places of interest that we’d need to sort through while making our plans in the coming days.

The day’s decision became easy when Rich let it be known that he needed some marina time. So, we set off for Hamilton Island, about a 7-mile trip. This island boasts a bustling resort city with a spiffy marina. Below, the view of Hamilton Island that lay ahead.

This marina wouldn’t be cheap; in fact this would be a big splurge for us, but we only planned to stay 2 or 3 days. I just hoped they’d have room for us. We called the marina as we neared the island.

Well, they did have room, but there was a problem. Before coming to Australia, we’d heard rumors that their marinas now require $10 million in liability insurance–a ridiculously excessive amount. We had talked to a few people who insisted this was true, while others said there was no way marinas would get boat owners to carry that amount of insurance.

So far this year, we’d been to three marinas with no problem (well, one did ask for $10 million but accepted our insurance policy as it was). We were now feeling complacent, thinking this might not be an issue. Thus, we were taken aback to hear that the marina at Hamilton required the $10 million coverage. Like, for real—there was no way around it.

What now? Well, our other planned marina in the Whitsundays was on the mainland at Airlie Beach, now about 18 miles away. Going there would throw off my itinerary but at least salvage our plan to have some marina time. We called, however, and learned that they, too, absolutely required $10 million dollars in liability insurance.

Now what do we do? We could skip these marinas, but I knew that one marina north of us, in Cairns, also required the $10m insurance. We could probably assume this would also be true of Townsville, our next marina stop north of the Whitsundays. It seems that after a certain point in north Queensland, boats simply need to carry more insurance.

What we needed to do now was up our insurance coverage. Luckily, we have a wonderful agent in New Zealand, Bill at the Marina Shop in Opua. We put in a call and yes, we could increase our insurance for the remainder of our current policy period, about 6 months. (As it turned out, this was a good thing since we ended up in Australia for another 6 months, but at this point we planned to leave in about 2 or 3 months).

We agreed to the terms and gave the go-ahead make the change in our policy, but it would take a couple of days for the process to be completed.

So now we had some time to kill and more decisions to make. We weren’t far from one of the “big gun” anchorages in Whitsunday Island, Cid Harbour. We decided to head up that way as from there, it would be easy to head over to Airlie Beach when our policy was ready. After a stay in Arlie, we could head back out to visit Hook Island and the north end of Whitehaven Beach.

It was a good solution, but this dashed my hopes for visiting Hamilton Island since that would entail backtracking. Part of keeping my promise to Rich to get through the Whitsundays as quickly as possible was to maintain a forward momentum, with minimal zig-zagging. Part of cruising, for those of us who do it as a way to travel, is accepting that it’s not possible to see everything and for this Capricorn to “digest the broken glass of disappointment” when plans go astray.

We did get pretty good look at the east and north side of Hamilton Island as we passed. It’s an attractive island, with what looked like very nice homes on the hillsides. We couldn’t see the main town or the marina, but we got a good look at the neighboring island, Dent. Below are a few photos of Hamilton Island.

Our next destination was now decided: Cid Harbour, famous in both good ways and bad. Items in the good category include the fact that it’s beautiful, protected from all wind directions, roomy, and conveniently located. (I think the one anchorage that all chartered yachts visit is Cid Harbour.) The item in the bad category: shark attacks—there have been several here. Cid Harbour’s deep, dark water attracts the fish that sharks like to eat. With no plans to swim in Cid Harbour, we had no qualms about going there. And so we set off with a new plan. –Cyndi

Posted June 30, 2024
about September 23, 2022

Goanna is the Australian name for monitor lizards, a family of lizard species ranging from the small Dampier Peninsula monitor, only 9 inches long, to the huge Komodo dragon, which can grow up to 10 feet long. Of the approximately 80 species of monitor lizards worldwide, 27 are found in Australia.

We were already familiar with goannas after encountering one species, the lace monitor or tree goanna, on a previous visit to Australia. These particular lizards are large, growing up to 6 feet long, and are adept at climbing trees.

We had spotted one on a hike near Port Stephens and were warned by a fellow hiker to give these lizards enough room so they never feel cornered. When trapped, they tend to panic and will try to climb up and over any obstacle, just like they would a tree. Their claws are very sharp; so this is always bad for the obstacle. Additionally, they can deliver a nasty and venomous bite.

With their big eyes and chubby bellies, they look wonderfully adorable and cuddly, but with the sharp claws, teeth, and venom, there will be no huggy kisses for these lizards!

It was exciting to get an up-close encounter with this goanna, which was quite beautiful and didn’t seem to mind me following it around (from a sensible distance).

Australia has many lizards besides the goanna, including plenty of skinks like these two below that we spotted on the walk.

Australia also has a lot of snakes, but I was glad not to encounter any, as they tend to be venomous. Birds, lizards, kangaroos, koalas, echidnas, tropical fish, whales, and dugongs? Yes, bring them on! Snakes, crocs and sharks? Not so much.

After the walk we found that “deserted” Chance Bay was anything but deserted (as shown in my Chance Bay post). We decided to head back to Legacy. –Cyndi