The Whitsunday Islands (Queensland, Australia)

Posted September 17, 2023
about September 2022

AI Generated Image – see the bottom of this post for more info. Click on picture for larger version.

The Whitsunday Islands group is made up of 74 islands and dozens of islets scattered between the north Queensland coast and the Great Barrier Reef. They are part of a larger group of islands known as the Cumberland Group. (However, the entire Cumberland Group is often included when people talk about cruising “the Whitsundays.”)

Below, an interactive map of the Cumberland Islands, which the Whitsundays are part of.

 

While islands line the entire Queensland coast, it’s here in the Whitsundays where they take on a significant change–going from hilly and scrubby to more mountainous and green.

Since the Barrier Reef lies in close proximity to the Whitsundays, these islands are more protected than those further south. This allows for a greater number of suitable anchorages, some of which have fine white sand beaches with clear turquoise and green water near the shore. While coral exists further south, it’s more abundant here, enough to be a draw for snorkelers. Diving excursions can be taken further out at the Barrier Reef.

The wildlife is dense here, too, with a plethora birds, migrating butterflies, sea turtles, and at certain times of the year, migrating whales. The climate is warm, but winter trade winds offset the mainland’s heat.

Not surprisingly, these islands happen to be beautiful, especially those with white sand beaches. This makes the Whitsundays a popular tourist destination. While most of the area is national park, there are a handful of resorts scattered through the islands, some of them very upscale. The majority of visitors, however, prefer to travel through the Whitsundays on a sailboat, making this one of the most popular yachting destinations in the Southern Hemisphere. Since visiting here in one’s own yacht can entail weeks of travel, the charter boat business is a thriving industry.

And this makes for the biggest drawback of cruising these lovely islands: crowded anchorages. It’s particularly crowded during the winter cruising season when privately- owned boats descend on area. These same boats generally head south at the start of the summer cyclone season, but since the charter industry runs year round, it’s never empty.

Crowds aren’t the only hurdle. The peak of cruising season is also the peak of the trade wind season, and these winds can become quite strong (known as enhanced trades). Enhanced trades result in fewer viable anchorages, unpleasant conditions for moving around, and rollier anchorages. The trade winds die off during the summer months, but that’s when cyclone season begins. Not wanting to take that risk, cruising boats usually migrate south.

Boats that remain, and the charter boats, have another issue: the Irukadji jelly fish that ply the warm waters off north Australia during the summer. This is subject I’ll be posting about, but I’ll sum them up this way: they are tiny, and they can be lethal. Those who survive a sting endure excruciating pain until they can get to a hospital.

As a result, most people going into the water in the summer months wear something called a stinger suit, a lycra or neoprene suit that covers the body, with the addition of boots, gloves, a hood and preferably a mask. Those who chose to go without take a terrible risk. I will add that wearing this getup is not much trouble for scuba divers (usually just adding a hood to what you’re already wearing), but the idea of taking a swim in a full stinger suit, especially in the summer heat, is not all that appealing.

So cruising the Whitsunday Islands is not without its hurdles. In the winter it’s the crowds and wind, in the summer it’s deadly jellyfish and cyclones. But there’s one risk that exists year round: sharks.

Unfortunately there is something about Australia that makes critters such as snakes, spiders, jelly fish, and birds extra hazardous. Sharks such as bull, tiger and white sharks are dangerous enough as it is, but it seems they are even more so here. Australia has the highest number of fatal shark attacks in the world. Other places have more attacks, but they are less likely to result in a fatality.

It seems the Whitsundays are quite a nice place for big species of sharks to live. After doing some research, I believe the high number of tourists here contributes to the number of shark bites that have happened in this area. Unfortunately another contributing factor–in my opinion–has been the tourist industry squelching reports of attacks, to the detriment of boaters coming here and not realizing the risks. This is yet another blog post subject I’ll be addressing, not just regarding Australia but a few places we’ve traveled.

For now, we can all just acknowledge sharks are an issue in the Whitsundays. There are places absolutely not to swim, and others where people should not go in the water, and yet they do. And places where the risk is no greater than anywhere else in Australia.

So, the Whitsundays are beautiful islands with some fantastic beaches. But not without its issues. Cruisers can have a great time, but it’s wise to be informed and make conscious choices regarding conditions that are present at particular times of the year.

Some cruisers don’t mind crowds at all and love an event called Race Week, taking place in August. People on big rental catamarans may not mind windy conditions. On the other hand, people who love to swim will want to be conscious of when they come here and where they go (I think maybe Greece would be a good alternative. Just kidding. Sort of.)

While I am just starting to do blog posts about this area, I will say in hindsight that I found the Whitsundays beautiful and am glad we did it. Rich was not as impressed overall but did appreciate some of the individual places we saw. We went in the spring, after the crowds and strong winds, but before the jellyfish and cyclones. We didn’t go in the water much, and when we did we sat in shallow water along the shore; no actual swimming. Since we lived to tell the tale, it worked out pretty well!

I was going to look for a photo to sum up the look of the Whitsunday Islands, but I thought hey, maybe let AI generate an image. I told Rich the key features I’d like to see, he did some work, and voila, the photo at the top of this post! It’s not of a particular place but more to convey the look and feeling of the Whitsunday Islands. I think AI did a remarkable job! –Cyndi

Some Nights in Indonesia (Lots, really)

September 12, 2023

Some nights just go like this…

WhatsApp chat with a friend.

Glossary:

Weathergram: Bob McDavitt, a New Zealand meteorologist, publishes a weekly outlook for sailors called the Weathergram. This week, he featured something we posted on twoatsea with ChatGPT explaining the MJO. It’s here on our blog.

Deadloch: A great Australian TV series that started this year. Here’s the Wikipedia page about it. They can do a much better job explaining it than my whiskey soaked brain can today. Highly recommended. It’s a great crime drama with a heaping helping of wackiness.

The Tower: A really good British crime drama. Wikipedia page here.

Winning Time: The Rise of the Lakers Dynasty: I have never been a basketball fan. If it’s on, I do enjoy watching it, but I’d never go out of my way to see a game. I think this amazing TV show has changed that. Even though it’s about a subject I’ve never particularly cared for, it’s now one of my favorite shows ever. Wikipedia page here.

Drum Whiskey:  An amazingly good and inexpensive whiskey made in Bali, Indonesia. Though it’s made here in Indo, it’s been surprisingly hard to find, maybe mainly due to the large Muslim population.

Drum Whiskey

Manado Sunsets, Wow!

September 10, 2023

Manado faces west and is kind of famous for its sunsets. Here’s last night’s show…

Sun setting behind Legacy, anchored off of Manado.
Some of the many watching the sun go down.

Each evening, hundreds of people gather along the seawall near McDonalds and KFC. On some nights, there are food trucks too. People grab a bite, sit on the wall and watch the sun go down. -Rich

Update: The Next day…

Squall heading for us.

The next day, we departed for a bay 10 miles north of Manado. PredictWind forecasts called for lightning at noon – the time of our departure. They were spot-on. Well, one clap of thunder and a light dusting of rain. The Manado sky is only dramatic at sunset and during the occasional squall.

The City of Mackay (Queensland, Australia)

Posted September 3, 2023
about September 15 – 18, 2022

It was lovely to wake up and see swallows darting around our boat in the Mackay Marina. These birds can be found pretty much everywhere we’ve been, but they always bring me joy whether swooping around our former home near San Diego or our current home at sea. We especially enjoy it when they perch on our lifelines, seeming to know that we appreciate their presence and would never disturb them.

Our car rental date was a couple of days away, but we met some fellow cruisers who kindly invited us to ride to Mackay with them. It was nice to get a taste of the cruising community again. We grabbed a quick lunch together before splitting off to do various tasks, planning to meet up later for the trip back to the marina.

My impression of Mackay was that it’s more of a large town than a city, with low buildings and a flat landscape. The central area is attractive with parkways and trees, but this rapidly diminishes as the lush green parkways give way to the naturally arid surroundings.

A trek to 31 Flavors took us through urban sprawl that was pretty unappealing, but it was worth it to get some our favorite ice cream  from America (OK OK, I guess all is cream is our favorite!). So many countries have Haagen Daz or Ben and Jerry’s, but only Oz (so far) has 31 Flavors.

Update: There are two 31 Flavors here in Manado, Indonesia!

Two days later we had our own rental car and ventured back to Mackay for a round of errands and provisioning. Our jaunt was a whirlwind that included a cheeseburger lunch, visits to Mitre 10 (a Home Depot-like store), Dan Murphy to stock up on wine, Bunnings (another Home Depot-like store), Chemist Warehouse (a drug store), Jaycar (reminiscent of Radio Shack when they were relevant), 31 Flavors (of course), and a big grocery store.

The weird moment of the day came when I wanted to purchase some honey produced on the nearby island of Keswick. My guidebook claimed the flora and fauna of this island makes its honey uniquely delicious, and it could be acquired at the visitor’s center in Mackay.

We finally found the center, and I asked if they had Keswick Island honey. Well, you’d think I was trying to order Starbuck’s house blend at a local artisanal coffee house! I was informed in no uncertain terms that Mackay has plenty of bee farms producing fine honey, and why would they carry honey from some other place?! Oh dear, I’d definitely offended the man working there. I enthused that I was sure Mackay honey is wonderful as I backed away slowly, slinking back to the car with my tail between my legs. Thank you Queensland guidebook for that!

As we drove back to the marina I could see the clouds building—it looked like we were going to have a thunderstorm, a common late-afternoon occurrence in Australia. Sure enough, the thunder started as I was preparing dinner. We kept our curtain open so we could see the lightening followed by wonderful rain! While lightening is a potential hazard to boats, I still love afternoon thunderstorms.

This was our final night in Mackay; the next morning would mark the beginning of our cruise to the Whitsunday Islands through the islands that trail south of them. I was simultaneously excited and stressed about this, excited to finally sail through this renowned cruising mecca and stressed by choosing between the many places to stop. Considering Rich’s lukewarm response to Queensland cruising thus far, I felt I should raise the bar higher in determining which islands would merit a stop and which we could bypass.

I’ll finish this post with a photo of one of Mackay’s lovely sunsets.

–Cyndi

 

 

MJO Who?

September 4, 2023

This morning, after reading Bob McDavitt’s Weathergram, I was trying learn more about the MJO as it’s coming to visit us in Indonesia this week. I went to NOAA’s website about the MJO and immediately stumbled into this very confusing paragraph…

Forecast of MJO associated anomalous OLR for the next 15 days from the ensemble mean GFS based on forecasts of RMM1 and RMM2. Blue (yellow/red) shades show negative (positive) OLR anomalies and enhanced (suppressed) convection. Forecasts do not include direct contributions from other climate modes such as ENSO, monsoons, etc. – only the MJO.

I’m positive (negative) that I don’t (do) understand, so I asked ChatGPT the following:

I don’t understand this paragraph. Can you explain it to me like I’m 5?

And Chat came to my rescue:

Of course! Let’s break it down:

Imagine the Earth has a big weather “dance” going on. This dance has different moves or patterns that change the weather. One of these dance moves is called the MJO.

Now, scientists have a special tool (like a magic crystal ball) called the GFS. This tool tries to guess what the MJO dance move will look like in the next 15 days. But it’s not just one guess; they make many guesses and then take an average, which they call the “ensemble mean.”

To understand the dance move better, they look at two things: RMM1 and RMM2. Think of these as two special clues that help them guess the MJO dance move.

Now, for the colors:

Blue means there will be more clouds and rain (they call this “enhanced convection”).

Yellow or red means there will be fewer clouds and less rain (they call this “suppressed convection”).

Lastly, even though there are many other dance moves (like ENSO or monsoons) that can change the weather, this guess is only about the MJO dance move. They’re not looking at the other moves right now.

So, in simple words, scientists are using a tool to guess how a specific weather pattern (MJO) will change the clouds and rain in the next 15 days. Blue means more rain, and yellow/red means less rain. And they’re only focusing on this one pattern, not the others.

After that, I felt like we needed an AI generated image…

Created by Stable Diffusion

(I’m not really sure why she has a pencil-thin mustache and a goatee).

-Rich