August 24, 2013
The walk to the village starts by the beach, going over a low hill to the other side, taking about 15 minutes or so. Once there, lush green vegetation gives way to a village with dirt paths, expanses of lawn and widely-spaced trees. Small tin-roof cottages are spaced along the paths, somewhat centered around the church building in the middle. It’s simple, clean, and well-landscaped. Behind the village is a long expanse of white beach that lines an impressive blue bay.
On the walk, we’d met our Turaga ni koro, Sake, and his wife, Ba, and they’d invited us over for lunch after church tomorrow. We’d hoped to avoid the whole church thing, but we didn’t feel we could gracefully turn down the offer. Church is important to Fijians, and the idea that someone might rather go snorkeling is an alien concept to them. Plus they’d invited us for lunch, and it would have felt rude to say no.
After a quick visit to Sake’s home, we followed him over to the chief’s bure (small home). We took off our shoes before entering, then sat on woven mats on the floor. The 85-year-old chef sat in front of us, and Sake sat near his side. Sake presented our kava and our $50 and translated for the Fijian-speaking chief, who thanked us for the offerings and coming and showing respect for their Fijian traditions. He welcomed us, and they completed the sort of chant-like speaking and clapping ritual. After the ceremony, there was some small talk before we all adjourned. Both Rich and I were pretty stiff-legged after sitting on the floor.
We were relieved our sevusevu had gone well, but in retrospect we needn’t have worried. We’ve since learned that Fijians are generally thrilled to have visitors, and as long as you bring kava and show the proper respect, you’re good. (Note: Another thing we’ve since learned is that kava drinking isn’t really a part of the average sevusevu ritual, but something that you may be invited back to do some evening if someone’s feeling chummy towards you.)
We headed to the beach afterwards, finding our friends. We were relieved to hear several cruisers would be joining us for church tomorrow; so we could go as a group. That made us feel more comfortable, especially since they’d also be doing lunches with local families. Rich and I were still insecure about interacting with the village, and we’d definitely feel more comfortable as a group.
For now, we walked on the beach, taking in the view and enjoying the company of some of the young women from the village. What beautiful, affectionate people they are. After our walk, we said our good-byes and headed back to Legacy. It was getting hot, and it was time for a swim!–Cyndi
