July 31, 2013
I’d been anxious to return to Taveuni Island to see the waterfall we missed on our last visit there. The challenge would be finding an anchorage as it’s generally believed that Taveuni has no decent anchorages. Usually the way to go there is via one of Jack’s outings from Viani Bay or on a ferry from Savusavu.
Early on in Fiji, I overheard someone on the radio mention anchoring off Taveuni’s east end. I didn’t think much of it as I assumed we’d learn more about it when the time came, but I made a note. It was a good thing I did: by the time were headed there, no one we talked to had ever heard of any such anchorage. There wasn’t anything obvious on the chart; it was like it didn’t exist! Very frustrating! It was time to consult the Soggy Paws Compendium.
Soggy Paws is the name of a cruising boat. It’s owned by a couple who have created compendiums where they, along with any cruisers who wish to contribute, describe anchorages and give helpful information, often including waypoints. There’s a compendium for Fiji, and I would say it’s invaluable as, amazingly, there are no good, current, Fiji cruising guides. Soggy Paws has saved the day for us more than once; I can’t imagine trying to cruise around Fiji without their compendium!
I was thrilled to learn that the Matei anchorage really does exist, and while it appears wide open on the chart, it’s surprisingly well protected by the surrounding reef. The compendium had waypoints into the anchorage through the areas of coral reef that surround it. I showed this to Rich, which finally convinced him that this mythical anchorage does actually exist (and that his wife isn’t delusional–at least not about this).
Now we had to figure out how to get through the Rainbow Reef between Rabi and Taveuni. Rich consulted other guides we’d collected in PDF files and found waypoints in a guide called “Mr. John” in Fiji. Mr. John’s intro cautions that while the info he’s gathered is “as good as it gets,” don’t trust any of it as Fiji is so poorly charted.
With that less-than-comforting endorsement, we set out through the Rainbow Reef with me at the bow. Rich did get nervous and made his own turn at one point, but it probably wasn’t necessary. Overall the waypoints worked well. Thank you Mr. John, whoever you are.
Next, we used the Soggy Paws waypoints to get into the Matei anchorage. This one made us very nervous and I stood on as high as I could for a good view into the water. The waypoints were perfect, and soon we were dropping our anchor onto a patch of sand in water so clear it was easy to see things on the bottom, about 17 feet below.
We looked around and were amazed. The wind was blowing 12 knots, but in here the water was glassy calm, perfectly clear, and an astonishing shade of blue. Nearby were an intriguing string of small islets. The handful of resorts and homes onshore had manicured grounds and hundreds of palm trees, making a beautiful backdrop. This may not be one of Fiji’s “destination” anchorages, but it’s so gorgeous it should be. We could not stop patting ourselves on the back for happening upon this place!
Thank you Soggy Paws: if it weren’t for your compendium, we never would have gone to the anchorage off Matei.
Below is a small gallery featuring the clear blue water in our anchorage off Matei (Taveuni Island, Fiji). Click to enlarge and scroll. –Cyndi
