Basically Western Fiji includes the west coast of Fiji’s main island, Viti Levu, and the two island groups that lie off of it: the Mamanuca Islands and the Yasawa Islands. Below a map showing the general area.
Within these areas are key points where most cruisers congregate. The big island of Viti Levu has two marinas: Vuda Point Marina and Port Denerau Marina. Each of these marinas has their own nearby city. Those staying in Vuda Point Marina often to go Lautoka to do much of their shopping and city activities. Those staying in Port Denerau Marina have a pretty good market right there (plus an array of restaurants) but generally go to the city of Nadi just to see it and visit the big outdoor market. (Note: while Denerau calls itself an island, it’s really not. Only a narrow channel of water separates it from Viti Levu and it’s a quick trip over a short bridge.)
Also on Viti Levu are some anchorages of note. Momi Bay (not shown on the map), while not a destination anchorage as there’s not much to see, is located near a reef entrance often used by boats entering or leaving the area. Technically you’re not supposed to anchor before checking in or after checking out of Fiji, but for a late night arrival or early morning departure, this spot can come in handy. (Just do so at your own risk; and don’t advertise that you’ve done so.)
Saweni Bay, just 3 miles north of Vuda Point Marina, is often used as a jumping off point for those staying in the that marina. Since tides, currents, and the schedule of the marina’s boat handlers (who’s assistance is required when entering or leaving a “slip,”) can affect when you enter or leave the marina, Saweni acts as a convenient place to anchor for a night so you can then make an early morning departure the next day (or conversely, wait for a spot to become available in the marina). Also, since space isn’t always available in Vuda Marina, Saweni can serve as an alternative as it’s possible to go ashore here and get transportation to the city of Lautoka.
The final anchorage option for this area of Viti Levu is to anchor off the city of Lautoka, and the best way to do that is to anchor off nearby Bekana Island. The good news is that this anchorage is well protected from the elements and the holding is excellent. The bad news is that it’s a mile offshore and a long dinghy ride to the city. To go to the city, note the pier off the island’s resort. It points almost directly at a breakwater coming off Lautoka. Locate this breakwater and ride through the channel right beside it to the small dock there. This dock belongs to the resort and is meant for their transport boats, but they will let you tie up your dinghy off to the side next to the rocks (and I mean right next to the rocks so you’ll have to climb out there, then step up onto the dock). There are guards at the shack there so your dinghy should be safe. Note: if you’re checking into the country at Lautoka, you’ll have to anchor off the city near the customs and immigration area, and we don’t know anything about the holding there or where exactly to go–check Soggy Paws.
In the Mamanuca island group, Cruisers often congregate at Malolo Lailai Island and its Musket Cove Resort which caters to cruisers and has moorings and even a small marina. In the Yasawa island group, cruisers generally like to base themselves in an area known as the Blue Lagoon off Nanuya Lailai Island.
One more place of note, not shown on our map as it’s further south, is a small island just off Viti Levu which has the Robinson Crusoe Resort, popular for it’s Fijian cultural shows and evening buffet dinners. Many cruisers make the trip down to Robinson Crusoe Island just to stay a night or two and enjoy the show before returning to the more mainstream areas of Western Fiji.
In general, those who spend a season in Fiji generally base themselves in what I call The Cruisers Triangle, splitting their time between three places when not actively cruising the islands. These places are Vuda Point Marina, Port Denerau Marina, and Musket Cove on Malolo Lailai Island. (When we last visited here in 2016, the Blue Lagoon area off Nanuya Lailai Island was gearing up in hopes of becoming one of the hubs by putting in an ATM and a market. There were supposed to be moorings, too, but it seems they didn’t get put in.) A more detailed page about the Cruisers Triangle is listed below this one.
The biggest difference between Western and Eastern Fiji comes down to their topographies. Eastern Fiji is more volcanic, lush, and mountainous. Western Fiji does have mountains, but they are much drier and grassier. Eastern Fiji does have some beaches, but not the proliferation of wide swaths of light sandy beaches that has made Western Fiji so popular. Also, Western Fiji has a large scattering of islands, many of which are flat, sandy (beachy) and feature a resort.
It’s not surprising that the majority of tourists who dream of a tropical getaway want the kind of place where they can bask on a sunny beach, mai tai in hand, swim and snorkel in the clear water off the island, and have the choice of where to eat made easy as there’s only the resort’s restaurants nearby (if they’ve opted for an island and aren’t staying in Denerau on the mainland).
While Eastern Fiji gets its share of tourists, those travelers are more in the mood for adventures such as riding in a jeep down rugged roads to visit waterfalls or bird sanctuaries, hiking through jungles, or scuba diving at some of the world’s most renowned dive sites. (Of course a few go to listen to Tony Robbins at his resort and seminar complex.)
The bottom line: You’ll find far more tourists in Western Fiji. This is not a bad thing in that this gives some areas a festive air, and many of the resorts are really nice places to visit. For the cruising sailor who wants to get away from it all, there are still plenty of places not accessible to tourists.
We’ve covered some what cruisers need to know, in general, to cruise Western Fiji in A Fiji Overview (link) and Things You Need to Know to Cruise Fiji (link). But I’ve also written a post specifically about Western Fiji in the Things We Learned About Western Fiji in the section that follows.