Luwuk Waterfalls (Sulawesi, Indonesia)

December 24, 2023

Just a short drive from Luwuk, Sulawesi, Indonesia are some amazing and very accessible waterfalls. We visited two of them while we were anchored in Luwuk Harbor.

In the video above, we start with Piala Waterfall and at 00:59:07 you’ll find Air Terjun Salodik.

Both waterfalls were stunningly beautiful! On travel vlogs they tend to be lumped into an area called the Banggai Islands, but these falls are actually located on the mainland and are well worth making the effort to see.

Here’s an interactive map that shows where these wonders are…

We had a great driver named Ipul who brought us to the falls (and a few shopping trips as well). His English wasn’t great but he speaks and understands more than he thinks he does.  His patience and willingness to help with whatever we needed more than made up for any language barrier. We called him on WhatsApp at +62 822-9783-5012.

Pelau Besar

December 20, 2023

Here we sit at yet another spectacular place. We were going to move on today, but it’s already 10AM and we don’t seem to going anywhere. Oh well. I guess we’ll stay another day!

Note: This photo clearly illustrates one of the difficulties with cruising Indonesia. The water is almost always too deep or too shallow. We’re anchored in 70 feet of water, but very close to 3 feet of water at the reef near us. We have just enough room that if the wind turns, we should clear the reef.🤞

Here’s in interactive map with our location…

A Morning at Brampton Island (Cumberland Islands, Queensland, Australia)

Posted November 19, 2023 about September 20, 2022

The next morning in Brampton welcomed us with the same misty haze and scattered low clouds that we’d encountered at Keswick Island. It was another sign of the changing season, a phenomenon that would accompany us throughout our cruise through the Whitsundays. This haze tended to linger through the morning and even into the afternoon. I’ve spent a lot of time in the tropics but haven’t experienced anything like this, and I have no name for it. Below, a few photos from our morning:

Since this would be another day of light conditions and a short trip to the next island, we had the luxury of time to linger. Rich even took a nap for awhile. Meanwhile the other boats in the bay left, giving us the place to ourselves. Normally, this is a good thing, but today I felt uncomfortable, liking this place less and less while growing increasingly anxious to leave.

In spite of nice scenery and turtles in the bay, there was something unsettling about this area. Of course abandoned buildings are never a good-energy thing, and I chalked up my feelings to our proximity to the dilapidated resort.

However, during my research for this post, I learned of something sinister in this island’s past: back in the 1990s, one of the resort waitresses was raped and brutally murdered. The murder went unsolved until DNA technology was introduced, which aided in solving and prosecuting this crime. The resort guest responsible was finally brought to justice.

I don’t think this event significantly affected the resort and was certainly not a factor in its closure. But now this area has been left with the fading echoes of its past. With the bustling energy of vacationing tourists gone, this faint echo has perhaps become more perceptible. It’s more sad than scary, but combined with the regrettable aura hovering over this island, it felt unnerving, even though I was unaware of the murder during our visit.

I told Rich I wanted to go, and soon we were heading off to what would hopefully be a better place, the Smith Islands. –Cyndi

A Day at Brampton Island (Cumberland Islands, Queensland, Australia)

November 17, 2023 about September 19, 2022

Continued from this post.

By the time we were ready to go ashore, a breeze had come up from the northeast. This was something we needed to be mindful of as we were in a north-facing anchorage.

One of the things we encounter while cruising is light and variable winds. Generally they range from 4 to 8 knots, give or take. As their name suggests, they often vary in direction throughout the day. Sometimes, these direction-changing breezes are something we have to contend with, but just as often, they present opportunities

Light and variable winds can be accurately forecast on the weather models (GRIBS). In some cases I have used these forecasts to plan quick visits to typically-untenable anchorages. We seize a calm window to dash ashore or go snorkeling, making sure to return to our boat and skedaddle out of the anchorage before the wind shift is due.

In other scenarios, when we know an onshore breeze will be light and short-lived, we choose to ride it out. This works just fine as long as the wind stays within the forecast range.

In this particular case, we knew the breeze would come up 4-6 knots in the afternoon and blow onshore until 4pm. Our tolerance limit for onshore winds is usually five to six knots maximum; thus, this situation was teetering on the edge between acceptable and unacceptable.

As good as the forecasts are, they aren’t perfect. Therefore, when we’re ashore during these ‘on the cusp’ winds, we remain vigilant, watching and listening for signs of the wind gaining strength. We monitor the surrounding vegetation for clues like increased swaying of treetops, rustling leaves, or shifting patterns of light and shadow. Visible flags are also very handy.

If all went well, the breeze would not be a problem and would actually make things a bit cooler for our excursion. We set off in our dinghy across the aquamarine water, glad to find it deep enough to get over the sand spit nearby. The water was bath-tub warm as we pulled our dinghy up on the sand; possibly the warmest ocean water I’ve ever felt.

We walked up the beach, passing the dilapidated swimming pool–a sad sight. The resort was fenced and cordoned off, strictly off limits to wandering urban explorers, but we managed to get a good look at the resort building and the palm-covered grounds. It must have been festive in its heyday, but now it was deathly quiet except for the crows. We spotted the caretaker, sunning himself on a balcony, but he made no move to interact with us.

Below, a few photos from our outing, including a couple of overhead photos of the resort and the pool.

We respected the boundaries, yet found ourselves right next to a fence to peer at the information kiosk, hoping to find a trail map. We found information about the area and spotted a tacked-on sign with a U-turn arrow that stated, “Trail map here.” But where? What did that mean?

We made a U-turn, searching the area for the map, to no avail. I trudged back to the sign for a closer inspection and realized the U-turn indicated to check the back of the sign. Sigh. What is it about information signs in Australia and New Zealand? Instead of simply providing information, they seem to offer clues, making us scour the area like reality show contestants.

We looked at the map and realized we could take an easy trail going about half a mile to the remains of a jetty. We set off, first finding the hard-to-spot (of course) marker and trail. Alongside the trail was an old railway that once delivered supplies from the jetty to the resort. The trail then veered deeper into a forest thick with Australian bush vegetation. The path, shaded by trees and littered with leaves, was pleasant A few butterflies fluttered about, yet otherwise this forest wasn’t particularly special. Already getting overheated, we decided to turn back. Below, a few photos of our trail walk.

By the time we got back to our dinghy, the breeze had come up; and as I’d feared, was a little stronger than forecast. Whitecaps dotted the water, and the ride back was splashy. The boat was starting to gently hobby-horse, but once we were back aboard it was hardly noticeable. The wind kept increasing, though, now quite a bit stronger than forecast.

Soon, the sea was covered with whitecaps and the wind was gusting up to 18 knots. Under normal circumstances, these conditions would prompt a frantic departure from the anchorage. However, in this instance, the wind’s easterly direction allowed us protection from little Pelican Island and its surrounding reef upwind of us.

Shortly after 4pm, the wind stared to ease. By the time evening approached, conditions had calmed. Below, a few photos of the evening and sunset.

In the distance, I noticed a large cloud rising from the top of a squall, the telltale sign of a forming thunderhead. Soon, we could see flashes of light in the cloud. It was beautiful to watch but another sign of the changing season. We knew that these thunder squalls would become a more frequent sight. How frequent was the question, and would they pose a problem for us down the road? Time would tell. –Cyndi

Weather Info from ChatGPT?

November 13, 2023

We have a friend who is planning to leave tomorrow to sail to the Philippines. Thers’s an alarming tropical depression shown on tropicaltidbits.com/storminfo today called 17W that might intercept his planned route.

I would normally do a routing on PredictWind to look at this passage. Today, instead, I had the idea to ask ChatGPT. Here’s the conversation:

Me
Can you look online for information about tropical depression seventeen and advise me of how it might affect a sailing passage at 5 knots from Lembeh Island, North Sulawesi to Davao City, Philippines, departing tomorrow at 6 am?
ChatGPT

Your planned sailing passage from Lembeh Island, North Sulawesi to Davao City, Philippines, departing tomorrow at 6 am, could be affected by the current weather conditions and the progression of Tropical Depression 17W.

Tropical Depression 17W:

  • As of the latest updates, Tropical Depression 17W is located 267 km south of Yap and is moving west-southwestward at a speed of 17 km/h (9 knots).
  • Over the next 24 to 36 hours, 17W is forecasted to track slowly westward, and after 2 days, it will accelerate to the west-northwest. In the following 3 days, it is expected to continue this west-northwest track before shifting northwestward over the next 5 days.
  • The intensity of 17W will likely struggle to develop in the next 2 days due to disorganized structure and moderate to high easterly shear. However, it’s expected to gradually intensify after 2 days, reaching a peak intensity of 85 km/h (45 knots) in 4 days.
  • The maximum significant wave height associated with 17W is around 4 meters (13 feet)​​.

Weather Forecast for Lembeh Island:

  • The current weather on Lembeh Island includes scattered clouds, with a temperature of 91 °F and winds from the north at 5 mph.
  • The forecast for November 13 includes isolated thunderstorms late in the day, mostly cloudy conditions, with a temperature of 90 / 73 °F, and winds at 4 mph.
  • On November 14, the weather is expected to be cloudy with passing showers, a temperature of 89 / 75 °F, and similar wind conditions​​​​.

Marine Forecast for the Region:

  • The general marine forecast indicates light to moderate northeasterly flow in the northern part of Indonesia, with easterly to southerly gentle to moderate flow in the southern part.
  • Moderate sea conditions are expected in various regions, including the Pacific Ocean north of Halmahera to Papua.
  • Swell heights of 1.25 to 2.5 meters are expected in some areas, with 2.5 to 4.0 meters swell in the Indian Ocean southern of Central Java to East Java​​.

Considering these conditions, your journey may encounter moderate seas and the potential for increased wind speeds and swells, especially if the path of your sail intersects with the forecasted track of Tropical Depression 17W. It is advisable to continuously monitor weather updates and maritime advisories for any changes in the forecast that could impact your sailing conditions.

This is so much better than I expected. It’s actually a rather thoughtful answer. To come up with it, ChatGPT checked the following online:

  • Tropical Depression 17W on Zoom.earth/storms – This isn’t something I’d have looked at, but I’ve got to say, the information is really pretty good.
  • Weather in Pulau Lembeh, Indonesia at timeanddate.com – OK, not a source I would use.
  • Pulau Lembeh 14 Day Extended Forecast again at timeanddate.com.
  • Indonesian Weather Bulletin For Shipping at Pusat Meteorologi Maritim – Something I’ve never heard of.

Here’s what the tropical depression looks like on zoom.earth:

To provide a comprehensive overview, here are key points from the weather routing analysis using Predict Wind:

From PredictWind. The warnings from bottom to top are Lightning, Vertical Acceleration and Vertical Acceleration.

I’ll restate what PW says below that table: At 0.2+ g’s Vertical Acceleration, it is dangerous to perform tasks and potential seasickness. It gets up to over 0.3 g’s here.

Again, PW says: 50% Slamming incidence or greater may lead to hull damage or crew injuries. Here, we see it get up to 70%. Yikes!

With this forecast and the added real possibility of crossing paths with a full-blown cyclone, the Legacy crew would do anything necessary to avoid this passage.

As a final note:

I’m impressed with Chat’s answer to my query, though for us, it’s not going to replace Bob McDavitt anytime soon!

-Rich