Rainstorm in Pacific Harbour

December 2, 2018

This is everything a tropical downpour should be – torrential rain complete with lightning. Unbelievably, I slept through this. I’m glad Cyndi got some video. – Rich 

Note from Cyndi: Last we wrote we were enjoying a 2-day hotel stay in Suva (see the update at the end of the Watching and Waiting post). This was a godsend in that not only was it especially hot, but we had both caught the flu. Being sick is no fun, but being sick in the heat is even worse; so being able to rest in air conditioning really helped. 

Unfortunately the heatwave lasted longer than the stay; so we decided to take the boat back to the coolest place we know in Fiji: Pacific Harbour. It was indeed better, but still pretty hot. Checking Expedia once again, we found another great hotel deal, this time at the Pearl Resort overlooking the marina where our boat is sitting. Still sick with the flu, we opted for a 4-night stay (the deal was just that good). 

Now, we’re back on the boat, and it’s finally comfortably cool again. As I write this (Dec 9, 2018) we are still not 100% but are well on the road to recovery. I will note here that what we caught was the Fujian flu (not to be confused with Fijian). It’s a rather nasty bug sweeping the country that seems to be hitting children particularly hard, with deaths in Fiji, the UK and Spain (and those are only what I’ve read about).  I read somewhere that when a flu sweeps through a warm area like the tropics, it’s likely to be a particularly hardy and virulent bug in that flu viruses generally prefer cooler temperatures. In conclusion it’s probably worth making the extra effort to get the flu shot this year. –Cyndi

Merry Christmas

December 3, 2018 in Pacific Harbour, Fiji

Saw a friend’s Christmas tree today and it got us thinking: we need a Christmas tree, or at least a Christmas Card.

Here it is…

Merry Christmas and happy holidays from your pizza-eating friends on Legacy!

Fiji’s Christmas Tree

November 28, 2018

Fiji’s Christmas Tree aka Vaya Vaya or Flame Tree.

We’re here late enough that we get to see Fiji’s Christmas tree, the Vaya Vaya in bloom. They’re beautiful. They’re also harbingers of hot weather and the start of cyclone season. Yet another signal that it’s time to get out of dodge. -Rich

Watching and Waiting (Suva, Fiji)

November 27, 2018

A rare current post from Cyndi:

Right now, we’re in Suva, Fiji (which coincidentally has also been the subject of the 2013 posts I’ve been working on).

As for now, 2018, most of the cruising fleet has already headed south for the summer. Still, there are a few of us still waiting for an acceptable weather window. A couple of people we know have headed to Minerva Reef about 2 or 3 days south of Fiji, hoping to get a good opportunity to head for NZ from there. We thought about joining them, but we worried about getting stuck there for a long time. Yes, we’re starting to feel increasingly hot and restless here, but hey, at least we have internet, movie theaters, restaurants, and grocery stores.

Unfortunately we also have a potential cyclonic weather formation north of us. I must emphasize the word “potential” as it’s not yet real and only forecast by one of the four weather models we’re using. In other words, it’s an educated guess about something that could happen that GFS (this particular weather model) is making. Their original prediction was that it might start appearing December 3, but now it seems to have been pushed back to the 7th.

Meanwhile a handful of boats have, over the past few days, been leaving from the west side. Right now there are a couple of nasty lows between us and New Zealand for that trip; so I’m a bit mystified about their choice to leave when they did. We know from experience that “hot and bored” (or for that matter, “cold and bored”) is a very precarious state to be in. When you add in news of a potential closed-isobar low (these can become cyclone embryos), it can be like taking a lit match to a powder keg. Well, that’s an extreme way to put it, but it is hard to fight that first wave of panic, stay calm, and start the process of sorting out the situation.

So, we did the first thing we do when faced with these decisions: have some wine (or whatever’s on hand; beer will do, but watch out for rum as you can end up with no useful brain activity at all). Actually, it’s not really about the drinking. It’s about taking a time-out and starting the process of digesting the information. And like digesting food, this takes some time. Going out to a restaurant is useful, as is watching TV, going to a movie, reading, working on a personal project, etc., to distract ourselves from overthinking.

One of the worst things for us to do is talk to other cruisers as the herd mentality quickly takes over. Critters gathering into a group, feeding off each other’s adrenaline, and gearing up to run generally do not like seeing any individuals calmly wandering off. It really bothers some members of the herd, but they can’t help it; it’s primal thing.

In the meantime our process when getting concerning news such as potential cyclone activity goes like this.

1. Distract ourselves until we’re in a calm mental place where we can think clearly.

2. Check the weather again.

3. Distract ourselves again. Distracting ourselves does not mean ignoring the situation—it means letting our subconscious minds take over for awhile. We find when we get our conscious minds out of the way, our subconscious minds can bubble up some surprisingly good ideas. We can also get better in touch with our instincts.

4. Weigh our options; what can we do and what are the pros and cons of each action? Try not to argue.

5. What are the odds of a worst case scenario?

6. Make a plan for a worst case scenario even if the odds are slim.

7. Now give the situation more time in general, see how it starts playing out.

8. Try to deal with whatever’s giving us any personal urges to run. When it’s an “out of the frying pan; into the fire” kind of thing, how can we make the frying pan more comfortable, or at least tolerable? This last one takes some flexibility, creativity and an open mind. We may not feel like traveling, but sometimes a small road trip or day excursion is just the thing we need.

9. Start making a few preparations even if no weather window is yet on the horizon.

10. Wait for a window to appear on the horizon.

This is the sort of process we’ve been going through for the past few days. It’s getting hotter here so in making the “flying pan” more comfortable we’ve been going to movies and spending time in the mall. Then Rich came up with the brilliant idea to go to the harbor next door to Suva. This has put us out in the breeze and, being a peaceful and lovely place, has made us feel like we’re cruising again without the commitment of traveling all the way to a mainstream cruising ground.

Meanwhile, it looks like we may have a window to New Zealand on the horizon. If it pans out, we’ll leave Saturday. This begins both an exciting yet dangerous phase in a cruiser’s life because now we’ve become part of a gathering herd (even if it’s a herd of only the two of us), restless and anxious to make a run for it. Each morning looking at weather is both nervous making and a relief when it’s still looking good.

Usually the weather continues to look good and we head off, but once in awhile the unthinkable happens: something in the weather changes and we have to abort. This isn’t so bad if it happens three days before lift-off, but I can tell you that aborting the day before a planned takeoff is really, really tough mentally, physically, and emotionally. The overwhelming temptation is to try to justify to yourself why it’s still a good idea to go, to simply not “see” the problem. Many cruisers succumb to this temptation and later regret it. Others do manage to put on the brakes and while that process isn’t pretty (we all have our own ways of expressing frustration, anger, sadness and disappointment), we do get over it and are generally relieved we stayed. (Rich and I have yet to regret—knock on wood—a decision to abort a takeoff).

So, we’ll sit here in Namuka Harbour another day, then head back to Suva to start provisioning. Meanwhile, I’m going to get back to writing Suva posts from November 2013.–Cyndi

Below, photos from Namuka Harbour: beautiful, peaceful, and cooler than Suva. (Click to enlarge and scroll.)

Update:

We did move back to Lami Bay, ready to provision, but our weather window fell through. Then began a period of light northerly winds that brought hot air from the north.

We decided to take our own advice and made the frying pan a little nicer while waiting out this unusually intense heat for another weather window. We found a great deal (thank you, Expedia!) at the Grand Pacific Hotel in Suva. Best of all: powerful air conditioning!

That Time of the Year – Weather Watch 2018

November 20, 2018

We’re heading to Suva today to get ready for the sail south to New Zealand. According to most boaters, we’re late. About 40 boats headed out three or four weeks ago, and another 20 hit the road a week after that. We’re tiger bait, yet again.

While we sit here and think about the approaching cyclone (hurricane) season, there are several weather sources we check each morning to look for suitable weather for a passage and to watch for the formation of cyclones. Here they are for your reference…

My first stop is windy.com where I get a large view like the screenshot below.

But there’s so much more information available on Windy. In the screenshot below, I’ve turned on “pressure” and selected Rain, Thunder. This view shows the front we’d have to go through if we left now more clearly than just the wind view.

It’s also worth taking a look at gusts. In the image above, I might think “25 knots isn’t so bad, after all, it’s behind us!” In the image below, I can see that we’d likely encounter 50 knot gusts! Deal breaker!

Windy has a new tool that’s very useful, maybe not so much for passage planning, but for cruising in general. If you right-click on the map and select “Forecast for this location” a bar at the bottom of the screen opens. At the very bottom of that bar, you can select  “Wind” and get really handy wind direction and strength arrows on the map. These clearly show the strength and direction of the wind on the three models Windy has available. (Lately, we’ve been favoring ECMWF over the others.)

You can use the same trick for seas, too. Just select “waves” on the bottom line and you get the display below. It’s great in that it shows you both of the major swells along with the wind (and thus, wind waves).

My next stop is usually Tropical Tidbits for storm information.

At the top of the page there is information on any current cyclones. If there are any in our neighborhood, we’re hopefully already aware of them. I scan down the list looking for anything with a S latitude (I’ve been told they don’t cross the equator, so there’s no need to worry about the ones in the Northern Hemisphere).

Of the greatest interest to me is the list of Invests. These are systems that are deemed to be important enough to “invest” resources to monitor them. Again, I scan down to look for anything with a S in the latitude. If any of those are in our corner of the world, I pay careful attention and look at the projected tracks.

But what are the chances of a cyclone forming? There are two places I go to look at that, not every day, but every few days. They are both related to the MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation). Below is a graph from Australia’s Bureau of Meteorology.

I don’t find that particularly easy to understand, so instead, I usually look at New Caledonia’s Met Service where the experts with a lot at stake have interpreted it for me. (I’m sure they also take into account other very technical concepts that are way beyond my pay grade.)

I just look at my location (Fiji now) and see the probability. By selecting Week 1, Week 2, or Week 3 at the top of the map, you see the updated probability map. If you hover over a spot on the map, you get this graph…

It’s taken me some time to get used to living in the 15 to 20 percent bracket. I was horrified the first time I saw this – I want 0.00% – but I ain’t gonna get it! Not at this time of year. Now I’m pretty happy with something like the image above.

Last, and not least at all, I look to Mr. Bob McDavitt. Bob is a meteorologist from New Zealand who’d been helping boaters out for many years. We owe most, or maybe all, of our success with weather to him. We do our best to pick our own weather windows, but then we turn it over to the expert for the final say. For a very reasonable price, he advises us, and provides us with a voyage plan which often gets updated several times during a passage.

We also pay close attention to his Weekly Weathergram.

I’ve learned so much from reading his Weathergram. Sure, he talks about prevailing conditions and those we’re likely to experience on passage, but he’s a great teacher, passing along great weather-wisdom in each edition.

Bob even managed to dumb it down enough to teach me in his most recent Weathergram by linking to Australia’s “Climate Dogs” videos. Here’s my favorite…

Thanks for that Bob!

I hope someone finds this information useful. Taken all together, it helps us feel better about being tiger bait, yet again. -Rich