Author: richwest3

A Final Gathering at Big Mama’s (Pangaimotu, Tongatapu, Tonga)

November 25, 2012

By Sunday, it was apparent that a weather window was opening, and everyone had made their decisions on when to go.  Two of the boats left today to anchor out near the entrance to this island group (the Tongatapu group).  Meanwhile, the last boat, Gato Go, arrived at Big Mama’s.  All the boats planned to make the jump to New Zealand tomorrow (Monday) except one: Legacy.

We weren’t trying to be different; it just made sense for us to leave a day later, on Tuesday.  One reason was, worried about leaving Legacy unattended in strong winds, we hadn’t checked out on Friday; so now we’d have to check out Monday.  But there was a bigger reason: 15-knot (plus) winds would be coming from the southwest all day Monday and Monday night, and we’d be heading right into them.  We preferred to wait one more day for the wind and seas to calm and be more in our favor.  Why go out and be miserable when you can wait a day and have it be so much better?

The group naturally gravitated to Big Mama’s that evening to have a few beers and (for some of us) dinner.  We all sat together, and while weather was discussed, the gathering felt as casual and relaxed as usual, like this was no big deal.  Everyone felt good about the forecasts and conditions and ready to leave.  Still, there was definitely an undercurrent; the feeling of a tribe gathering in the face of . . . something.

We did talk about the Pacific Drifter’s Net.  As the rest of the fleet had pretty much arrived in New Zealand, there were no net controllers on the radio.  We’d need to pick a person from each boat willing and able to run the SSB (single side band radio) net: once in the morning, and once in the evening.  It is the net controller’s job to get on the radio at the appointed time, call first for any emergency traffic and then take position and condition reports from each boat participating.  Rich would be one of the net controllers and would kick it off tomorrow morning.  Our little fleet had come down to eight boats.  Beau Soliel, Gato Go, La Luz, Morning Glory, Sam, Sockdolager, and Picara would head out on Monday.  Legacy (Tiger Bait once again) would head out on Tuesday.

The evening ended with some dart games and milling around by the bar before everyone broke off to head back to their boats for a good night’s sleep.  It would be the last one for awhile as passages mean long night watches.  -Cyndi

Everyone started to gather at Big Mama’s around sunset.
Everyone started to gather at Big Mama’s around sunset.
Just shooting the breeze.
Just shooting the breeze.
Having another round of beer to watch the sun set.
Having another round of beer to watch the sun set.
Sunset view; sometimes that wreck looks so bizarre.
Sunset view; sometimes that wreck looks so bizarre.
A convivial moment.
A convivial moment.
Hanging out by the bar, playing darts.
Hanging out by the bar, playing darts.

Thoughts on Anchoring at Big Mama’s (Pangaimotu, Tongatapu Group, Tonga)

November 21 – 26, 2012

We were anchored in front of Big Mama’s at Pangaimotu for about a week, and in all it was a great place to be.  The biggest drawback was not having access to town whenever we felt like it, but the advantages more than made up for that.  We had laundry service, diesel-jug-filling service, and one of the things most treasured by cruisers: a nice, comfortable place for everyone to gather and have a beer (or three) right next to the anchorage.  It was a great place to hang out, especially after a day spent working on the boat or provisioning in town. Plus, the sea breezes kept this area cool even when it was hot in town.  –Cyndi

Big Mama’s dinghy dock.
Big Mama’s dinghy dock.
A warm, lazy afternoon on the deck at Big Mama’s.
A warm, lazy afternoon on the deck at Big Mama’s.
Looking at the beach next to the restaurant.
Looking at the beach next to the restaurant.
Group weather discussions were a frequent pastime at Big Mama’s.
Group weather discussions were a frequent pastime at Big Mama’s.
The wreck off Big Mama’s.
The wreck off Big Mama’s.
The beach at the other end of Big Mama’s restaurant.
The beach at the other end of Big Mama’s restaurant.

The Westerlies Arrive! (Nuku’alofa, Tonga)

November 23, 2012

We had been sure to leave the Ha’apai Group so we could have a secure anchorage for the westerly winds due to arrive on Thursday.  Now it was Friday and they hadn’t arrived yet, but looked like they could come in today.  The group were all planning to leave around Monday and opted to go to town to check out of the country and provision.  We were thinking we’d leave Tuesday or Wednesday and so didn’t need to check out yet.  We were concerned about the winds and opted to stay in the anchorage with Legacy and keep an eye on the other boats, too.

I felt pretty silly around lunchtime when it was still and beautiful and we could have been in town enjoying internet access, coffee drinks, and really nice lunches at Friends Cafe or Escape Cafe.  We were below reading around 2pm when Rich said, “Did you hear that?”  I had subconsciously noticed some noise and now paid attention.  It was the wind, picking up very suddenly.  It ended up getting quite blustery very quickly!  It probably blew 20 knots or more.  The people who had gone to town were pretty horrified to see the conditions when they got back (Jim even put out a second anchor), but this is a good anchorage and the boats all held fine.

The winds blew through the night and into the next day, but it had lessened to the point we were comfortable going to town.  It was a rather wet ride in the dinghy to Big Mama’s, and then we had to make a beach landing because they had taken the docks up (a common practice anywhere when it gets very windy).  But with the promise of cappuccino in Nuku’alofa, we would practically have been willing to swim ashore!

I don’t have photos of the anchorage in the windy weather, but I have some really nice photos of it when it was calm; so here they are.  -Cyndi

A calm, gorgeous morning.
A calm, gorgeous morning.
It was beautiful to be able to see into the water like this.
It was beautiful to be able to see into the water like this.
The other boats in the calm water.
The other boats in the calm water.
A gray morning at anchor.
A gray morning at anchor.
A sunny afternoon after the winds died down.
A sunny afternoon after the winds died down.

Thanksgiving in Nuku’alofa (Tongatapu, Tonga)

November 22, 2012

For so many years, I have dreamed of being away in a tropical locale for Thanksgiving dinner.  Finally, this dream was coming true as it doesn’t get much more tropical than Big Mama’s!  Some of the cruisers were having a potluck, but my vision never including trying to figure out how to make a Thanksgiving-worthy dish for ten people with ramen noodles and a can of olives (pretty much what I had on hand).  It did, however, include sitting in a thatched-roof, open-air restaurant by the sea, being served a wonderful dinner, drinks, and having no dishes of any kind to do.  I will admit the vision did include something more elegant than fish and chips for dinner, but I wasn’t going to be too picky.

We did have a lovely meal by the sea.  I wouldn’t say it was our most festive Thanksgiving dinner as we were virtually the only people in the restaurant, but it was still nice.  And on the way back to our boat, we stopped by the potluck (taking place on Morning Glory) and were invited aboard to have some dessert with the group.  (We felt bad as we had nothing to contribute, but that didn’t stop the pie from tasting great!)  Overall, it was a very nice Thanksgiving.  -Cyndi

Thanksgiving evening at Big Mama’s.
Thanksgiving evening at Big Mama’s.
We enjoyed a couple of Makas (the popular beer in Tonga).
We enjoyed a couple of Makas (the popular beer in Tonga).
Looking out at the anchorage outside Big Mama’s.
Looking out at the anchorage outside Big Mama’s.
Thanksgiving fish and chips!
Thanksgiving fish and chips!
Dessert with friends on Morning Glory.
Dessert with friends on Morning Glory.