Our little “cabin” was a couple miles down unpaved road near an area called Henderson Bay. We were probably a quarter mile from the actual bay and hadn’t planned to see it, but the owner was saying on calm mornings, large, playful dolphins come right into the bay.
Unfortunately it it was not a calm morning as the wind was up and the water rough, but we went to go check it out anyway. It’s a nice area, and the owner says the walks around here are very nice. I have no doubt they are, but we had a long day ahead and needed to get going. -Cyndi
Henderson BayGrassy dunes next to Henderson BayLooking north to what is rumored to be a really nice walk up the coast.A view from the road leading out to Henderson Bay.
There was more to see between the Te Paki Dunes area and our inn, but it was getting late so we decided to save that for tomorrow. For now I was worried about dinner. This is a remote area and there aren’t many places to eat, and things don’t stay open very late. On top of that it was a government holiday—would anything be open? The worst case scenario would be having to drive an hour south to the Mc Donald’s in Kaitaia , not a happy prospect.
We drove past the turnoff for our inn and headed for the small town of Houhora where there’s a big touristy tavern. My heart sank to find it closed. We drove to the next tiny town, Pukenui, where we spotted a liquor store and pulled in thinking we could just get snacks. It, too, was closed. I could hardly believe my eyes when I looked across the parking lot and saw a nice looking restaurant/bar, the Pukenui Pacific, and it was actually open! I could have kissed it!
We ordered food at the bar then made our way to the deck with frosty mugs of Tui beer. Our dinner soon arrived, a seafood burger and a satay burger, and they were both delicious. What a treat to find a nice little restaurant like this out in the middle of nowhere, open on a holiday. –Cyndi
One common sight on the Aupouri Peninsula is sheep amid pine trees. (Aupouri Peninsula, New Zealand)Ordering at the bar of the Pukenui Pacific. (Pukenui, New Zealand)Nothing like a cold drink after a long day. (Pukenui, New Zealand)Local folk on the deck of the Pakenui Pacific. (Pukenui, New Zealand)
Before our road trip continues south, I’ll sneak in a few more of those all-important action shots from the car. These are from the Aupouri Peninsula.
Also, here’s a movie from the north entrance to Ninety Mile Beach up at the Te Paki area. Even though it was a windy day, we’d been magically sheltered from it while we were on the dunes and in the Sand Stream. We finally were in the wind when we went out onto the beach. –Cyndi
We got back to our car, and I studied the map while Rich backed up and headed out of the parking lot. Imagine my surprise when I looked up and saw not the road but the riverbed coming up fast as we headed down an embankment right into it. It seems Rich decided it would be fun to drive this in our Volvo station wagon.
I gripped the armrest and anxiously looked out, not sure I was comfortable with this plan. At this point it didn’t matter as you can’t make a U turn. You have to keep your forward momentum, speeding up to get through patches of water and trying to stay on the hardest sand. Water would splash up on the windshield and Rich had to be quick about getting those wipers on so he could see. The riverbed has a lot of curves and you have to be on your toes! It takes total concentration and nerve. Rich had the nerve. I was nervous, but the danger of getting stuck also made it exhilarating.
When we got to Ninety Mile Beach, the sand was packed hard and we were able to make a U turn and head back up the riverbed. I will say this takes some driving skill, and I was glad Rich seemed to be up to the task. It got a little hairy at the end as we needed to speed up to get through a stream and up the embankment. A mother and child were walking slowly across the road we needed to end up on. Thankfully she pulled the child to her and we were able to zoom up and out. Had we slowed down or stopped, we surely would have gotten stuck. –Cyndi
The riverbed of the Te Paki Sand Stream. (Te Paki Sand Stream, New Zealand)The Caution Sign next to the stream. (Te Paki Sand Stream, New Zealand)Rich taking off down the riverbed in our Volvo station wagon. (Te Paki Sand Stream, New Zealand)Trying to avoid the wettest spots and keep up enough speed to get through the ones we couldn’t avoid. (Te Paki Sand Stream, New Zealand)Sometimes it was a wet ride. (Te Paki Sand Stream, New Zealand)Heading back to the dunes after a successful U turn by the beach. (Te Paki Sand Stream, New Zealand)
It was exciting to come out of the riverbed and be on the famous Ninety Mile Beach! We were amazed at how big it is, not just the 64-miles in length but the width of it. From the edge of the beach to the water is quite a walk.
We made the walk down to the water’s edge so we could put our feet in the Tasman Sea. I looked out towards Australia and reminded Rich that as enamored as we are with New Zealand, we do need to get over to there, too. Someday. I think Rich is too taken with New Zealand to worry about Australia.
After spending some time walking on the beach, it was time to make the walk back to the car. We did see a couple of cars drive out from the riverbed and take off down the beach. Rich mused that we could have taken our car down here, but I was glad we walked and really got to experience it. In fact I’d recommend to anyone that even if you have an appropriate car, do the Te Paki Stream on foot. –Cyndi
We were about to exit the riverbed onto the beach. (Ninety Mile Beach, New Zealand)The dunes behind us as we made our way to the water. (Ninety Mile Beach, New Zealand)A wind angle shot of the beach. (Ninety Mile Beach, New Zealand) (Click to enlarge.)The Ninety Mile Beach shoreline. (Ninety Mile Beach, New Zealand)A rock island with a hole through the middle offshore. (Ninety Mile Beach, New Zealand)Putting our feet in the Tasman Sea. (Ninety Mile Beach, New Zealand)
