A Hike to the Duke’s Nose (Lane Cove, Rere Bay, Whangaroa Harbour, New Zealand)

March 11, 2013

Now that we were in Lane Cove, it was time for the official kick off of Legacy Boot Camp. All the tasting of the local foods (especially the ice cream and fish and chips) had put some weight on us.  We’d decided that cruising the islands would be a great way to exercise and hopefully take off a few pounds.  The 45-minute hike up to the Duke’s Nose would be a great start!

We did the hike, and while some people might get to the top in the advertised 45 minutes, it took us a good hour.  As we got near the end, the path became very narrow with a cliff on one side and a steep precipice on the other before it faded out completely.  The view was gorgeous, but we were at the bottom of the nose and not the top.  When we headed back, we saw where we had missed the path that went straight up the side of the rocks.  It looked too dangerous to do without a safety line; so we decided were satisfied with sitting under the nostrils.

When we got back to the boat, we went for our first swim of the season, bathing suit optional.  The water in New Zealand is cool, but at the end of the summer it’s really nice. Early in the evening, a small power boat with a few middle-aged guys on a fishing trip came in to anchor, and soon they were enjoying beers and their own bathing suit-optional swim. The cliff behind them became washed in a gold evening light, and now I had a problem.  I really wanted a picture of that cliff, but how would it look with me running to grab a camera and taking pictures in their bathing-suit-optional direction?  I got the camera thinking maybe they wouldn’t notice.  Well, they did notice and had quite a laugh about it, making remarks about how some of the guys would need an extra-powerful lens, etc.  I wondered if I should shout across the bay that really, I’m not taking pictures of them; I’m taking pictures of the mountain behind them, but it sounded lame, and I didn’t feel like doing all that shouting.  They didn’t seem to mind the idea of being in our photo collection anyway. –Cyndi

The Duke's Nose above us. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
The Duke’s Nose above us. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
The beach where we landed our dinghy. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
The beach where we landed our dinghy. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
The beginning of our hike, walking through tree ferns and palms. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
The beginning of our hike, walking through tree ferns and palms. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
A fern forest en route to the Duke's Nose. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
A fern forest en route to the Duke’s Nose. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
Distant peaks became visible a we got higher up the mountain. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
Distant peaks became visible a we got higher up the mountain. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
The path became more narrow as we got closer to the Duke's Nose. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
The path became more narrow as we got closer to the Duke’s Nose. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
The path became even more narrow as we got further out. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
The path became even more narrow as we got further out. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
The path ended completely, but we now had an amazing view. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
The path ended completely, but we now had an amazing view. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
The view from the bottom of the Duke's Nose. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
The view from the bottom of the Duke’s Nose. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
A beautiful mix of tree and fern forest on the hike to the Duke's Nose. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)
A beautiful mix of tree and fern forest on the hike to the Duke’s Nose. (Whangaroa, Harbour, New Zealand)

(Somehow, the Duke’s Nose looked familiar: link – Rich)

Lane Cove, Rere Bay (Pekapeka Bay, Whangaroa Harbour, New Zealand)

March 10 -12, 2013

We made our way into Rere Bay and had our choice of 3 or 4 little coves.  We chose Lane Cove, right at the base of the mountain with the Duke’s Nose rock formation.  It was easy to spot by the cottage onshore that belongs to the Department of Conservation.

Once we got our anchor set, we were able to look around and take it all in.  We sat amid green walls of vegetation topped by rocky outcrops that towered above us.  Not since the Marquesas have we seen cliffs like this.  The water was green, clear and very inviting.  In a country full of beautiful bays, this was one of the most impressive. –Cyndi

The view out of our companionway in Lane Cove.  (Rere Bay, Whangaroa, New Zealand)
The view out of our companionway in Lane Cove. (Rere Bay, Whangaroa, New Zealand)
A wall of vegetation next to our boat in Lane Cove.  (Rere Bay, Whangaroa, New Zealand)
A wall of vegetation next to our boat in Lane Cove. (Rere Bay, Whangaroa, New Zealand)
A golden wash of late afternoon sunlight in Lane Cove.  (Rere Bay, Whangaroa, New Zealand)
A golden wash of late afternoon sunlight in Lane Cove. (Rere Bay, Whangaroa, New Zealand)
Looking further into Rere Bay from our anchorage.  (Whangaroa, New Zealand)
Looking further into Rere Bay from our anchorage. (Whangaroa, New Zealand)
Look across Rere Bay into another cove across the bay.  (Rere Bay, Whangaroa, New Zealand)
Look across Rere Bay into another cove across the bay. (Rere Bay, Whangaroa, New Zealand)
Evening light in Lane Cove.  (Rere Bay, Whangaroa, New Zealand)
Evening light in Lane Cove. (Rere Bay, Whangaroa, New Zealand)

Pekapeka Bay: Land of the Giants (Whangaroa Harbour, New Zealand)

March 10, 2013

The winds had died down, and we were ready to try one of the anchorages on the northeast side of Whangaroa Harbor.  We headed to Pekapeka Bay, amid the high cliff walls in the fjord-like area of the harbor.  The mountains here look big, but it’s when you see a boat motoring past them that it’s apparent how massive they are.

There are two bights in this large bay, Waitepipi Bay and Rere Bay.  We decided to head for Rere, at the base of the steepest mountains.  We were treated to a blast of wind as we motored towards the anchorage, an effect that can happen in areas like this.  The effect didn’t last long, and soon we were back in calm water. –Cyndi.

Heading into Pekapeka Bay. (Whangaroa Harbour, New Zealand)
Heading into Pekapeka Bay. (Whangaroa Harbour, New Zealand)
Motoring past the mountains with a great view of the rock formation called the Duke's Nose, near the top of the peak on the left. (Whangaroa Harbour, New Zealand)
Motoring past the mountains with a great view of the rock formation called the Duke’s Nose, near the top of the peak on the left. (Whangaroa Harbour, New Zealand)
Waitepipi Bay, the east bay in the larger Pekapeka Bay. (Whangaroa Harbour, New Zealand)
Waitepipi Bay, the east bay in the larger Pekapeka Bay. (Whangaroa Harbour, New Zealand)
Heading towards Rere Bay, the west bights of Pekapeka Bay. (Whangaroa Harbour, New Zealand)
Heading towards Rere Bay, the west bight of Pekapeka Bay. (Whangaroa Harbour, New Zealand)
Heading into our anchorage at Rere Bay. (Whangaroa Harbour, New Zealand) Click to enlarge.
Heading into our anchorage at Rere Bay. (Whangaroa Harbour, New Zealand) Click to enlarge.
The hills in Whangaroa drawf even large boats. (Whangaroa Harbour, New Zealand)
The hills in Whangaroa drawf even large boats. (Whangaroa Harbour, New Zealand)