Manado: A View From Our Cockpit

August 24, 2023

This was taken last night from our cockpit while at anchor off of the city of Manado…

Manado, from anchor. Click image to enlarge.

Anyone who knows us knows that we’re in heaven. And it’s not just these places that are nearby. There’s also a Baskin-Robins 31 Flavors, about a billion great restaurants, laundry, fuel (via jugs), street food, food trucks and more.

To avoid Pollyannaism here are the negatives: There’s loud music at all hours and a very deep and rolly (for two hours a day while the wind goes onshore) anchorage. The music isn’t as bad as the 4:30 am call to prayer was from the mosques at other anchorages. We don’t really hear that here. The dinghy landing is also marginal, but our standards for acceptable have lowered dramatically since we’ve been in Eastern Indonesia!

-Well fed Rich

Heading to the City of Mackay (Queensland, Australia)

Posted August 18, 2023
about September 14, 2022

We woke up early as we had a long trip ahead, approximately 50 miles from Curlew Island to the city of Mackay. Below, a map of our approximate route.

As I mentioned in my previous post (Mysterious Curlew Island), we weren’t all that happy being anchored at Curlew Island, but at least it seemed, initially, like we’d gotten out of the swell. As it turned out, not so much—during the night conditions became rolly for a time. Not terrible, but these days Rich seemed increasingly intolerant of rolliness.

In studies on Negativity Bias, the human brain’s tendency to emphasize negative experiences over positive ones, there’s a 5-to-1 ratio of positive to negative interactions in what’s considered a “good” relationship. While I can’t imagine the numbers are that definitive, I do believe something to this effect is true, not only for human relationships but for people’s relationships to their environment and/or lifestyle.

In terms of cruising we have mentioned our own E/A (ecstacy/agony) ratio. While mine was currently OK here in Queensland, Rich’s was getting increasingly out of whack. I hoped having some city and marina time in Mackay would be good for us.

We set out early into a beautiful day, a 12-knot breeze from behind giving us a glorious downwind sail. It was pleasantly sunny and warm, and islands dotted the sea all around us. Inspired by these conditions, we ended up making one of my favorite sailing videos so far. Rich already posted it; so here’s a link to that post.

The trip took between 8 and 9 hours, and for most of the trip, the current was with us. When it did turn against us, it wasn’t too strong–it seemed we’d left the most extreme currents behind us.

I’d been excited to see the city of Mackay, the place where we planned to enter Australia before our Lord and Master, the weather, told us no, you’re not going there; you’re going to Gladstone. As a result, our arrival here had been delayed 2 months! This turned out to be a good thing: we’d missed the windy and crowded peak cruising season in the Whitsunday Islands, which lay just north of Mackay.

Weather conditions were still pleasant as we neared Mackay. Since this is a mining city with a huge shipping port, there were large number of ships anchored for miles outside the city. It was unnerving to make our way through them, especially when some were moving about.

I could see signs of the coal shipping operation on shore, and not surprisingly, it wasn’t attractive. The day was hazy with light smog, and we joked that we’d discovered the San Pedro of the South Pacific. (San Pedro is a large shipping port near Los Angeles). I was worried now that Mackay might be not be an appealing city.

After we got through the shipping lanes, we saw some tall buildings on shore, and the scenery now morphed from San Pedro to Long Beach, a more cosmopolitan and attractive port city next to San Pedro. Still, I was concerned—will Mackay be a city to enjoy or a place to endure?

Below, some photos of our approach to Mackay (click any photo to enlarge).

We motored into the outer port that fronts a huge breakwater surrounding the marina. At this point we could only see masts peeking up from behind the massive rock wall. Out here it looked fairly industrial; so I just hoped the marina would be nice in spite of these surroundings. We’d already been assigned a slip; so now we headed in, prepared to seek out our spot in this large marina.

As we motored in past the breakwater, the marina came into view, and what a shock! Suddenly, it looked like were in Honolulu, and the rapid change in my perception felt disorienting. But how wonderful to be so pleasantly surprised.

We found our slip and got tied up easily. Next it was time to head up to the office and check out our new home (for the next few days anyway). –Cyndi

Independence Day at D’Lagoon Resort

August 16, 2023

We have been lucky enough to spend some time at anchor off of the D’Lagoon Resort on Lembeh Island, North Sulawesi. Wow, we have had such a great time. They have been so warm and welcoming.

Their independence day is coming up on 17 August and to accommodate their staff, they celebrated a few days early. We got to join in the games. Here are some of the highlights.

Not pictured: The amazing feast we had afterwards. We’ve eaten quite a few meals here now and the food is so incredibly good.

-Rich

A Great Day in North Sulawesi

August 12, 2023

Wow, what a day. I’ll start with the highlight…

A tarsier just getting up from a daytime sleep up in the tree.

I’d never even heard of a tarsier before coming to Sulawesi and now I’m in love with them. We went to Tangkoko Nature Reserve in the evening and stayed until after dark to see these little critters. Here’s a map showing D’Lagoon where Legacy is anchored, the wonderful city of Menado and the nature reserve.

It didn’t take long before there were five or six sticking their heads out of the hole…

“What are all y’all doing outside our tree?”
Tarsiers emerging for their nighttime escapades.

Our amazing guide told us that at 6:00 PM, they’d start jumping out of their tree to nearby branches. They did just that, almost to the minute.

A tarsier out for an evening insect forage.

Cyndi and I had our own guide who was incredible, with eyes that would make an eagle jealous. There were several other guides with groups ranging from two to about 12. Here’s what the tarsier viewing looked like…

Watching the tarsiers. Yep, that’s Cyndi in the front row in the green shirt!

While the tarsiers where the highlight of the evening, they weren’t the only special critters. On the way to see the tarsiers, our guide stopped suddenly and motioned for us to do the same. Just above us where cuscus bears.

Cuscus Bear.
Just hanging around, I guess.

Cuscus bears are actually marsupials, not bears at all. They eat leaves. What strange and cute animals!

Not quite so cute (at least not to us) were the other tree critters our guide spotted…

The crowd gathered around just two meters from this tarantula where not impressed with my sense of humor when I said that they are known to jump 10 meters or more.

To get to the reserve, the resort we’re anchored near, D’Lagoon, ran us across the straight in a fast boat to Bitung where they’d arranged a driver for us. Our day started at about 9am and after about an hour drive to the wonderful city of Manado, we were in shopping and dining paradise. This was by far the nicest city we’ve visited since arriving in Indonesia about four months ago. Here are some pics. Click to enlarge.

In order: Boat Ride to Bitung, Freshmart Grocery Shopping, Megamall, Heaven, Me enjoying Heaven.

We also had a great lunch after grocery shopping – grilled fish, rice and two different kinds of sambal (read “mouth on fire”). And oh yeah, Bintang beer too. What a day!

-Rich

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Ternate Cruising Info

August 7, 2023

This is the start of cruising info page about Ternate, Indonesia (pronounced Ter‧na‧tay). It’s been our favorite city so far, but not without its difficulties. Below is a Google Map with some of the essentials we found, including dinghy landings and anchoring spots. Click on a marker or listing either on the map or the list below the map for more info about that spot.

Here is a zip file with two gpx files showing our anchor spots as well as a route into the restful Sidangoli.

Ternate GPX

Below are a bunch of pictures of some of the listings on the above map, including the very short video below of the night market.

Ternate
Dinghy Landing #1 – at Stainless Ladders
Small Dinghy Landing Audience with Helper
Dinghy Landing #2
Sidangoli Anchorage
Sidangoli Anchorage Evening
Tidore Anchorage
Amazing Bookstore at Jatiland Mall
Coffee Drinks at Excelso
Jatiland Mall
Papa Ron’s Pizza – Surprisingly Good
Beemo
Open Market Inside Area
Open Market
Ikan Bakar
Side Dishes with Ikan Bakar, Including Sambal
Hot Coals Ready to Cook the Ikan Bakar
Some of the Fish to Choose From for Ikan Bakar

If you find this information useful, or entertaining, perhaps…