Cruising Girl, Interrupted (Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia)

A season of burnout, breakdowns, and unexpected anchoring. A personal look at what happens when the adventure needs a pause.

Written April 2 and posted April 12, 2025

If you’ve been following our blog, you may have noticed our posts tapered off a few months ago. You may have wondered why, and I’ve been wanting to post an answer. The problem: I haven’t really had an answer. Or more accurately, I’d land on one answer—until it was replaced by another, and then another. So I ended up with an impressive pile of answers—but no posts.

I finally feel ready to return to the blog.

Starbuck’s in Labuan Bajo was always felt like home.

But jumping back in like nothing happened doesn’t feel quite right. At the same time, my pile of thoughts and issues is so big that trying to sort through it all in one go feels overwhelming. I do want to share these things—but they’ll need to come in smaller, more manageable pieces.

So in this post, I’ll start with the instigating event. In my view, this is one of the most important—and most often overlooked—aspects of adapting to long-term cruising.  To put it simply: it’s the need to balance a lifestyle that includes lots of travel and novelty with periods of sameness and routine. The human brain can only handle so much new information before it needs a timeout out to assimilate its experiences.

What makes this seemingly-simple concept complicated is not only do people vary in their capacity for assimilating new experiences, but each person’s capacity can vary quite a lot depending on their circumstances. What works to maintain a balance one year might fall short during another.

In this particular case, we’d been making our way south through Indonesia to the island of Flores. The trip took several weeks and involved many day-long hops, a couple of overnight passages, and a few brief stays. At this point, the plan was for us to take a break for awhile, settling in near the town of Labuan Bajo, giving us a chance to mentally catch our breath and figure out our next steps.

That plan crashed and burned when Rich took an instant dislike to the area and wanted to head further south immediately. I proceeded to have what used to be called a nervous breakdown—now more gently referred to as a “mental health crisis.”

I’ve always pictured nervous breakdowns as screaming, crying events, but actually it’s a quiet process. Like an overloaded electrical circuit, the brain trips its breaker to protect itself. In the case of the human brain, the overwhelmed unit switches off from its usual functions: thinking, planning, managing, forecasting, strategizing, and reacting; and goes into a quiet, depressed mode.

During the week that followed, I functioned just well enough to get by, but emotionally I spent time, “Lying in bed just like Brain Wilson did” (Brian Wilson by the Bare Naked Ladies is great song if you haven’t heard it).

Sometimes a girl just needs a break.

Rich thankfully relaxed on his urgent need to leave, and instead we focused on prepping to cruise nearby Komodo National Park, after which we planned to return to Labuan Bajo and take the time we needed to plan the upcoming season.

Ironically, we ended up spending a few months in Labuan Bajo. There were several reasons for this, but the main one was Rich came up with an idea for an app. We’d been considering ways to bring in some income, and this idea seemed the most promising. But for Rich to develop the program, we’d need consistent access to good internet and a nearby town or city. Labuan Bajo could provide what we needed, maybe not perfectly, but well enough. We decided to pause our travels and focus on building the app.

As it turned out, we would come to love some aspects of our Labuan Bajo life after settling in an anchorage that suited us.

The peaceful anchorage off the Sylvia Resort at Labuan Bajo was our home for the season.

I certainly got the time-out from cruising that I needed, but other parts of life stayed challenging—some of the ‘answers’ I mentioned earlier—and just too much to squeeze into one post.

To sum it up, the past few months have felt like a perfect storm: Covid PTSD, societal upheaval and stress, and old life memories bubbling up—probably age-related. Also, I was feeling out of sorts in my relationship with humanity, leaving me feeling blocked from sharing our experiences—something I usually love to do. I ended up suffering through many mood swings that came from traveling down this bumpy life road.

Writing and updating lists while underway is part of life, but too much saps the grace and contentment out of life. One has to leave time for the present while sorting through the past or organizing the future.

I want to make an observation that this seems to have been a tough era for many people. Something in the stars, maybe? Or perhaps it’s a particularly challenging time to be alive on this planet.

As I write this, we are in Bali and preparing to fly out of the country to renew our Indonesian visa. Maybe we can renew ourselves, too. — Cyndi

Click-n-Learn

March 3, 2025

“What do you do all day out there?”

One answer we have to that all-too-common question is Click-n-Learn, the Android app we’ve been developing for nearly a year now.

We’ve been using Duolingo since we’ve been in Indonesia to try to learn some of the local language. That was going well until they dumped about 30 new words on me in one lesson. That was so overwhelming, I “forgot” to use the app for weeks.

We used flash cards to learn the new words, but that didn’t work well for me (I hate flash cards). I started thinking about how I would create an app to help with the learning. Click-n-Learn was born.

We’re getting very close to being finished with it. We went through the Google required, two weeks of testing only to get turned down for inclusion in the Play Store. It seems we didn’t have enough engagement from our testers. That turned out to be a good thing as now we’re making some changes that are turning into a major improvement.

We’re making the app free now and adding voice pronunciation. We’re going to charge a monthly subscription fee for pronunciation, not only to help with our weak and dying cruising kitty, but to also cover the cost of the Google text-to-speech service we’re using. I am really thrilled with how this is turning out.

When it’s released for testing again in the next week or two, we’d really love to know what you think, and for your help with testing. Thanks in advance.

-Rich

The Scream Heard All Around Indonesia!

March 1, 2025

We’ve had a few very interesting animal encounters here in Indonesia – this one just a few days ago.

We’d motored our dinghy about half way to the pier when something skittered over my leg. I looked down to see what my mind believed at the time to be a 12 foot crock. I screamed, which is kind of rare for me. It was a short scream, cut off by the realization that it was just a large, little lizard.

Cyndi then picked up the slack when she was startled by my scream and then saw the “crock” in our dinghy. Her scream was the best horror movie scream I’ve ever heard and went on for at least 20 seconds. Her scream was followed by at least a minute of my hysterical laughing (yep, I’m not a nice person!).

The lizard didn’t want anything to do with the noisy creatures in this boat but he couldn’t get up the slick sides of the dinghy to escape. He hid the best he could and we pretended he wasn’t there the best we could.

When we got to the dock, we were able to use an oar to persuade him to leave.

Our other animal encounter was finding a 12 foot python in our galley at 2 AM. Here’s a post about that.

-Rich

Note from Cyndi: I love critters like lizards plus non-deadly insects/snakes. But this one startled me. By the time I finished my scream, I realized it wasn’t a sea snake (my biggest fear) but a monitor lizard. I felt terrible for screaming and apologized profusely for scaring our little friend. He/she (they?) actually poked its head out and looked us both, one at a time, in the eye, as though assessing our intentions. Poor thing was feeing vulnerable, though, and tried to hide the rest of the way to the dock.

We went to make our beer purchase, hoping it would vacate the dinghy, but it was still there when we returned. Rich got it onto an oar paddle and simply transferred it to the water. No worries, it was a water monitor that’s a good swimmer. It was nice to see the oar used for a peaceful purpose, and not as an argument instigator for us Boomers (to this day, they remain “the yelling sticks.”) Here’s our original post about them.

 

Bali for now

February 26, 2025

I know we haven’t posted anything in a long time and we won’t offer lame excuses. Truthfully, we just really haven’t felt like posting! We’ve been in Bali now, anchored in Serangan Harbor since December 17th. If you’d ask me how long we’ve been here, I’d say 3 weeks. Looking back at Google Timeline was shocking. We’ve been here over two months!

We are a bit up in the air as to what we’ll do next and when we’ll do it. We need to fly out of Indonesia to renew our visa in early April. This would be a good place to leave Legacy and a convenient airport to fly from. But we also want to go to an area on the northwest corner of Bali called Menjangan. Whether we do that before or after the visa trip is still under consideration by the powers that be (Cyndi).

In the mean time, we’ve added a map of this area to our cruising info pages. Here it is below:

-Rich

The Coastal Whitsundays: South Molle Island (Whitsunday Islands, Queensland, Australia)

Posted October 2, 2024
about about September 26, 2022

We planned to get a slip in the town of Airlie Beach, but our expanded insurance coverage would take another day to activate, giving us one more night to fill.

Where to go? The logical next stop was one of the islands paralleling the Queensland coast: Long Island, the Molle Islands, or Daydream Island. Though officially part of the Whitsundays, these islands also form Molle Islands National Park.

The coastal islands are definitely set apart from the other Whitsunday islands. Their long and narrow shapes, lower hills, drier vegetation, and proximity to the mainland–averaging 1 to 2 miles offshore but merely ¼ mile away at the closest point–give them a unique look and feel.

The anchorages on the west side of these islands face the mainland, offering a tranquil view of calm seas framed by palm trees and hilly landscapes. Though the westside beaches are coarse with coral rubble, that tropical wonderland view is something special.

Given the view and their proximity to the mainland, it’s no surprise these islands were once home to the area’s key resorts. In their heyday, the resorts on South Molle Island, Long Island, and Daydream Island were very popular. But like many island resorts off the Queensland coast, two of the three now sit abandoned and decaying.

I’ll cover the abandoned island resorts of Queensland in a future post, but their typical pattern is one of financial struggle followed by cyclone destruction, which literally delivers the fatal blow. Of the many damaged resorts along the entire Queensland coast, only three have been revived, including the one on Daydream Island in Molle Islands National Park.

Today, our choice was between South Molle Island and Long Island, only 3 miles apart.

The anchorage at Long Island, named Happy Bay, was home to the remains of the closed-down Long Island Resort. The anchorage looked pretty, and from what I heard, the old hotel had a caretaker and was only mildly spooky. But this spot would be out of our way.

South Molle Island also boasted an attractive anchorage, Sandy Bay. This island was also home to a defunct resort, but it was located in another area, well away from the anchorage. This meant no creepy, haunted-house buildings to contend with. Sandy Bay also lay directly on our route to Arlie Beach. With that, we chose South Molle Island as our next stop.

It was a pleasant day for our 2-hour motorsail trip to the destination, with sunny skies and a light breeze. Our route took us between South Molle Island and Long Island, giving us great views of both islands.

South Molle Island
Long Island

I briefly second-guessed the decision not to stop at Long Island, but I let it go as we approached the west side of South Molle Island. Below, a couple of photos of our approach to South Molle Island.

Things got interesting when our helpful current met a counter-current, stirring up whirlpools and turbulent water all around us. Thankfully, Sandy Bay appeared to be outside this zone of chaotic water. We didn’t mind motoring through it, but it’s not something we’d want to anchor in. Below, a video:

At first Sandy Bay seemed like a great anchorage, boasting an attractive beach backed by high grassy hills. But while there were only a couple of boats there, the presence of private mooring balls meant there was far less space than there’d initially appeared to be, and the anchoring zone between the reefy shore and the swift current was not so roomy. We could have eked out a spot if we were desperate, but Rich already had his eye on another anchorage near the north end of the island. Below, a photo gallery of lovely, but not-so-roomy, Sandy Bay.

And a large sea turtle that was hanging out in the area . . .

As we headed north we checked out another area, Camp Bay. At first glance it looked like a potential anchorage, but a closer look revealed the bay was quite reefy. Still, it was pretty from a distance. Below, a photo of Camp Bay.

Soon, we arrived at the spot Rich found. There wasn’t much of a beach or any striking visual features, but it was calm and quite pleasant. The low hills here were thickly forested, and the rocky shore was dotted with mangroves. Soon, it became apparent this spot had one standout feature: birds. We heard a cacophony of bird calls, including kookaburras and cockatoos, especially around sunset. As the daytime calls faded, the night birds took over.

We also had views of Mid-Molle Island (which is connected to South Molle by an isthmus and not truly a separate island) as well as hilly, green North Molle Island, still a wilderness. Then there was the renovated resort on Daydream Island, less than a mile away, which I was very interested in seeing. I’d initially considered taking our dinghy over to see if they were cruiser-friendly, but after a look through the binoculars, it didn’t seem worth the effort. Below, a photo of Daydream Island Resort.

We stayed put, enjoying the golden evening light from the cockpit, followed by yet another beautiful Queensland sunset, serenaded by countless birds.

The next day, we’d be heading into a whirlwind of a busy, heavily-touristed town; so it was nice to have this last peaceful, nature-filled evening. –Cyndi

 

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