August 25, 2013
On the way back to Legacy, we went to chat with a newly arrived boat. They were very unhappy about the $50FD fee (about $25US), and asked if we had at least “argued” about it. Uh, no, we didn’t. We knew before we came here it would be $50; so why would we argue? They were upset we hadn’t argued, and by the fact we gave “too much kava.” I was a little confused by this at the time, but later realized where this probably came from.
When we first came to Savusavu and did Curly’s seminar about cruising Fiji, one of the things he said was necessary was to get your cruising permit laminated, along with a Fijian translation (also laminated). You are to bring this with you whenever you first go ashore so you can be prepared to “argue” about your rights. This confused the audience, and when someone asked specifically where we might need to argue, Curly avoided answering the question.
Many people went ahead and got their permits translatated and laminated, but we never got around to it and eventually forgot all about it. Well, it seems some of the self-professed Fiji cruising experts (Curly, John Martin of the ICA Rally, etc.) object to the Lau villages (Fulaga and Vanua Balavu) charging a fee and thus advise their followers to argue with them about it in hopes it might change.
Perhaps there’s also some concern that other remote villages might get the idea to charge a fee, but for the time being the fees in Fulaga (southern Lau) and Vanua Balavu (northern Lau) are set and made very clear. I believe that urging people to argue just puts them in a bad position and annoys everyone involved.
Some followers come in all gung ho about making an argument; then invariably end up backing down, saving face by saying they were given a list of what will be done with the money thus have made a “donation.” The alternative, making a point of refusing to pay and sailing away, isn’t something anyone really wants to do after making the long journey there.
To the authority figures who tell people to argue with the village leaders: If you don’t like it, you go argue! If you’re insisting on recruiting people to do your dirty work, be straight with them about what you’re telling them to do. And for all who know full well the fees for the Lau Group and get all upset about it, there’s a simple solution: don’t go.
I’ll end my rant of the day on a nicer note with this peaceful rainbow picture from a morning in the anchorage. –Cyndi
