August 01 & 02, 2012
Warning: Long story to follow.
The winds were coming, maybe in a day or two. This we knew from the computer generated weather prediction files called Gribs. We really, really wanted to get into a marina to wait out the blow, as we had done in Tahiti. The most likely marina was at Utaroa. It was said to be a municipal marina, but they didn’t answer any radio calls and we had no contact information. Leg work required.
We walked to the marina – not a long walk – and we found no sign of a marina office or a marina manager. We asked a friendly-looking woman if she knew who we could talk to about getting a temporary spot to tie up, and it turned out we asked the right person.
She was Marlies and would soon become what I hope will be a life-long friend. Marlies said she was headed to the marina manager’s office and that she would talk to Hinano for us. Hinano is the woman who manages the municipal marine facilities on Raiatea.
Hinano wasn’t in but would be back at two. Marlies said she and her husband, Alain, would meet us back at the office then. We got back before they did, and someone who didn’t like us hanging around ushered us into Hinano’s office where we were promptly told there were no slips available.
We waited for Marlies and Alain anyway, if for no other reason then to tell them what had happened. They were having none of that and marched into Hinano’s office. Three or four minutes later, we had a slip, mostly, maybe. They knew of a boat that would be out for some time. Hinano had not yet been notified. Now there was only one more obstacle.
It turns out that obstacle was a big, surly local who runs the marina – Andre. I guess technically, Hinano is his boss, but I don’t think he likes that fact, or even if he’s aware of it. We brought our boat in the next morning and there he was, standing on the dock telling us that there was no space – go away!
“But Hinano told us we could have Bruno’s slip” we told him. No, go away! Get out now! What he didn’t know is that three women were running up behind him to set the record straight. Andre didn’t have a chance. We hovered and watched as Marlies and her morning yoga class explained the situation. He turned and motioned us to our temporary slip. What else could he do in the face of this great force?
When people asked us if there were spots available in the marina, I’d say not likely. I can’t imagine that the stars align very often as they did for us. We just happened to have the good fortune to meet Marlies.
We spent a lot of time during our 8-day stay in the marina and later at Bora Bora with Marlies and Alain. We cherish their friendship and love the things we learned about the good life as lived by the French (and maybe Europeans in general as Alain is French and Marlies is German – now living in Raiatea and Florida in the off season).
We’ve said it before, but the friends we make out here are a major highlight of the cruising lifestyle. So are the times when it just all comes together. -Rich
