December 2013
We know a lot of cruisers who skipped the season in Fiji last year, and we plan to write a quickie guide on what we’ve learned about the middle and east side of those islands (we never got west of Suva—that’s for next season). In the meantime, we realize a lot of our friends had only a short time in New Zealand, or saw all of it quickly and are back now to see more.
We opted to cover less of New Zealand as we plan to come back a few times. Basically, we’ve seen and cruised much of the north half of the north island, and maybe our experiences can benefit someone else. This is one reason we do a blog, but since someone is, uh, a little behind, and it’s a big blog, here’s a really condensed version of our favorite anchorages in the Bay of Islands, Whangaroa and the Cavalli Islands, the Mainland Coast. (A second part for the Hauraki Gulf, Great Barrier and Great Mercury Islands should come soon.)
Note: Everyone has different things that “float their boat,” and I will caution anyone reading that what attracts us to an anchorage most is its beauty. Historical sights are interesting, but for us they aren’t reason to choose a bay. If you are into gun emplacements, Maori pa sights, “authentic” cultural or intellectual experiences, this probably won’t be that helpful. My personal slant is birds, especially rare birds. And wine. If an island has rare birds or wine, I have a hard time being objective.
Before I get to the maps; there are some things we’ve learned to watch when cruising New Zealand:
1. Keep an eye on the weather and have a plan B. We check the weather in the morning to make sure there are no surprises, and in the evening so we can adjust our plans if need be.
2. Beware of Silly Season, the Kiwi name for the Christmas and school summer holiday period. Christmas here is like the Fourth of July in the US when people are out on their boats in droves. Unfortunately many of the best places (the Bay of Islands, the Hauraki Gulf, Great Barrier and Great Mercury Islands) will have crowds; so if you’re out cruising at this time, strongly consider going somewhere off the beaten path. Whangaroa, north of the Bay of Islands, is a gorgeous area that is less crowded during the holidays (so we’ve been told).
Silly Season starts mid-December, but from what we’ve seen (and had confirmed by Kiwis we’ve talked to), things don’t really get going until December 26. The most crazy period lasts until the end of January, but it does linger into February as it’s still summer.
3. Beware that Kiwi anchoring practices can seem pretty bizarre. When Rich and I go to the effort to drop and set our anchor, we will almost always be spending at least one night. Kiwis, on the other hand, seem to enjoy a different anchorage for breakfast, lunch, dinner and overnight. It’s like musical chairs; I have never seen so much coming and going! Don’t assume because an anchorage looks full from afar that there won’t be a spot opening up at any moment. So often Rich and I head towards a particular spot in a bay, and just as we approach the boat in that spot picks up and leaves.
Also beware that some people here like to anchor too close; to a point it seems crazy and you can’t imagine what they’re thinking! You have to be prepared to go out and yell, or at least do the anchor stare. Our theory is they’re used to sailing during Silly Season and are actually queuing in an effort to make room for the hundreds of boats (in their mind) due any minute.
The American way of anchoring is if there’s someone in one area of a bay, you head to a different area of that bay. The next arrivals fill in any spaces in between leaving enough space for at least 4:1 scope or more depending on conditions. Many Kiwis, on the other hand, see the first boat as starting a row or a line and will anchor as closely as possible to it—at least this is our theory. We also believe that while we Americans have a “you snooze you lose” attitude about procuring a spot, the kindhearted Kiwis make room even when it means being too close to another boat.
4. We used David Thatcher’s Guides when we cruised, one for the Hauriki Gulf and another for the Northland Coast (which includes the Bay of Islands). They are excellent cruising guides and reasonably easy to use. We also used the Opua book we were given when we arrived and it was also helpful for north coast and Bay of Islands.
Here is a map with our favorite anchorages marked. I also added a few that we had researched and chosen but weren’t able to get to. We assume everyone has good charts and doesn’t need waypoints.
I will note one more thing: we’ve either motored past or driven by most of the anchorages on the mainland peninsulas in the Bay of Islands and, with a couple of exceptions, they are not as nice as the anchorages in those islands.
Bottom Line: If we had limited time to do the Bay of Islands, we’d do these:
-Urupukapuka Island: either Paradise Bay or Urupukapuka Bay and walk to see the other.
-Moturua Island: Waiwhapuku Bay (aka Army Bay).
-Roberton Island.
-And if conditions are calm you can fit it in as an afternoon anchorage, Waewaetorea Island/Bay.
Click on any map marker for a description or click on the description below the map to see where the marker is located. You can also pan and zoom the map for a better view.
